Assessment: Lamda Informal Eating, Vasiliki, Lefkada, Greece

Inbuilt 1846 and re-imagined in 2024, Lamda Informal Eating occupies a lovingly restored dwelling with a sun-faded stone façade, located instantly on the water’s edge within the coronary heart of Vasiliki. The historical past of the constructing is there for all to see however what’s occurring there now’s something however old school. As a substitute, it’s a culinary reboot of Greek custom: reverent, however not nostalgic. Greek delicacies with a contemporary twist — and maybe a contact of theatre.

The meals

Dishes arrived with understated drama – by no means pretentious, however at all times composed. And served with the utmost care and attentiveness We started proceedings with the cornbread sourdough – delicate and heat, it was accompanied with salted fish roe and citrus-marinated olives — a nod to custom, but with a gently rebellious word.

My favorite dish of the night was the lentils, one of many humblest of pulses, elevated with probably the most scrumptious smoked eel, cauliflower purée and fragrant oil.

Feta cheese, often a country staple, was served breaded in polenta, drizzled with a thyme honey from Lefkada and a beneficiant sprinking of black sesame.

Don’t additionally miss the grilled octopus, superbly tender, paired with a carrot purée, pickled pearl onions, rice chips and a tarragon oil – a textural masterclass.

Additionally worthy of point out is the crispy mozzarella, set on a canvas of eggplant and tomato marmalade, and laced with basil oil, and the wealthy and comforting shrimp saganaki, reimagined with a contact of candy chilli, Metsovone cheese and basil.

For me, the standout fundamental was my seafood orzo, glistening with shrimp and squid, in a tomato and basil discount that struck simply the fitting chord of simplicity, while nonetheless being full of flavour.

My spouse swore by her Black Angus burger, served with pickled cucumber, Cheddar, onion mayo, and crispy potato rocks. And the indulgent deconstructed pastitsio — with layers of beef ragu, pasta, béchamel foam, and seared parmesan, even received the higher of my son’s monumental urge for food.

Desserts didn’t disappoint both, from the deconstructed lemon tart with blueberries, caramelised Aegina pistachios and chocolate flakes, to the chocolate fondant, served with crème anglaise, Madagascar vanilla, yuzu, dried rose, and ice cream. Decadent, dreamy… and fairly in all probability extra energy than we must always have had, however nothing {that a} run the following morning couldn’t type out.

The chef

Menelaos Chalikiopoulos isn’t just a chef. He’s, in the very best sense, an architect of urge for food and reminiscence. His meals feels prefer it’s looking — for misplaced flavours, for brand spanking new frontiers, for the tales in between.

Having skilled in a few of the sharper corners of European delicacies, Chalikiopoulos returns to Lefkada not with a mission to modernise for the sake of novelty, however to hear extra carefully to the land and sea he grew up with — and to allow them to communicate. There’s humility in his innovation. He doesn’t shout by means of the plate; he whispers.

His dishes dance between confidence and restraint — daring with out being brash, elevated with out alienating. That steadiness is difficult to show. It’s instinctual.

The atmosphere

What higher setting may you discover? We have been seated simply a few yards from the water’s edge, interrupted solely by the mild hum of different pleased diners, seemingly envious passers-by, and the hush of boats nudging towards Vasiliki harbour. And towards this backdrop of stone and sea, the waiting-on workers are very attentive, however by no means overbearing.

The associated fee

Don’t anticipate conventional taverna pricing, however do put together your self for distinctive worth. Most starters hover round €14–17, and mains largely sit within the €24–28 vary.

Wines begin at €36 a bottle – we had the Chardonnay from the Karipidi Property (close to Larissa in central Greece), priced at €48.

The ultimate verdict

In a village greatest recognized for its windsurfing and relaxed vibe, Lamda Informal Eating gives one thing a bit totally different to anything on Vasiliki’s waterfront. Quitely radical and providing a extra refined eating expertise, Lamda is a spot to savour – not only for the meals, however the additionally temper, the second and the mellow tempo of a particular Lefkada night.

Disclosure: This publish is sponsored by Lamda Informal Eating. Our journey was sponsored by AEGEAN Airways.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxurious Journey Weblog and has labored within the journey business for greater than 30 years. He’s Winner of the Improvements in Journey ‘Greatest Journey Influencer’ Award from WIRED journal. Along with different awards, the weblog has additionally been voted “one of many world’s greatest journey blogs” and “greatest for luxurious” by The Telegraph.