Day of Journey with Kali Travels in Patagonia
As my alarm went off brilliant and early, I opened the curtains of my room at Remota Lodge to see the distant peaks of Torres del Paine Nationwide Park slowly waking up. This area, recognized for its explorer-ready landscapes, climate and sculpted peaks, can be dwelling to certainly one of South America’s most elusive inhabitants: the puma.
Having visited Torres del Paine earlier than, I’d explored these valleys, lakes, and trails for 2 weeks with out ever seeing a Puma. The thought that they had been there, quietly watching from the shadows, all the time added a sure thrill to each hike and {photograph}, and I admit to getting slightly quicker in my strides as soon as darkness hit on my hike down from Mirador de las Torres.
This time, nevertheless, issues had been completely different. As a part of the Journey Journey World Summit, I joined Kali Journey and Journey for a full-day tour, one which promised not solely the possibility to witness the park’s wildlife however to take action alongside conservation-minded guides and trackers who know the land and certain actions of those majestic huge cats.
The drive out was stuffed with anticipation, and some little naps, earlier than I woke to see we’d arrived in an space of the park I’d not beforehand been. I immediately felt the good thing about having an area information and Martin, the proprietor of Kali Travels, together with Mathias, an area tour information, inspired us to stare out the window and keep alert for any motion throughout the terrain.
Recognizing guanaco, and gazing fortunately on the huge landscapes, I knew I’d be fully content material and over the moon with simply that. If nothing else appeared for the remainder of the day, I used to be again in certainly one of my completely happy locations, and loving each minute.
Then, not more than twenty minutes into arriving inside the park, they acquired a name from Nico, a skilled tracker that was exploring one other valley within the hope of recognizing a puma for us.
He’d discovered one. Already.
The adrenaline hit and my completely happy daze was changed with a rush to organize my digicam, placing on the MC-20 2 x teleconverter as a result of I assumed the puma can be off within the distance.
Arriving to see Nico beside the highway, our group rapidly joined him, staying shut collectively to make sure the puma wasn’t disturbed by our presence. He identified that she was resting behind a small bush, and all we might see initially was a tiny glimpse of her again.
All we might do was watch and wait.
(can you see her gray again within the picture under?)

The temperature was near zero that morning with fixed drizzle, and whereas a number of passing teams grew uninterested in ready for her to wake, our group continued, and for that I’ll be eternally grateful to our guides!
In my rush to get out of the car, I’d left my gloves in my bag, and ended up with numb, crimson fingers after standing within the chilly and moist circumstances for about half-hour. It was a type of instances the place you could solely get a split-second probability to get your shot, and for that motive, I didn’t need to danger a touch to retrieve my gloves and as an alternative, saved myself busy by chatting with my fellow travellers, listening to tales about Arnie Weissman’s adventures in Antarctica, Tala Dabain’s in Jordan, and David Torres’ in Ecuador and the Galapagos. Occasions just like the ATWS carry collectively a neighborhood of explorers, and I couldn’t assist however pinch myself at how fortunate I used to be to be standing there, on a day of journey, connecting with such well-travelled business colleagues whereas ready for a puma to pop her head up…loopy!
Then, she woke.
Wanting precisely like all of us really feel after a nap, she raised her head slowly, nonetheless showing slightly sleepy whereas assessing her environment.

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We took a number of fast pictures earlier than she lay again down, tossing and turning as if she was trying to get comfy once more and return to sleep. Fortunately although, there appeared to be a scent of guanaco within the air, as she woke once more quickly after to gaze slightly extra intensely on the height behind us.
This second enabled me to rapidly seize a picture of her staring immediately forward, and to get a more in-depth take a look at the placing options of a puma’s eyes, nostril, and ears. I had the MC-20 teleconverter on, which enabled me to achieve a focal size of 300mm, ideally suited for her place on the hillside.

Till she did an enormous stretch, and commenced to wander down in direction of us.
Our guides talked about she was little question hungry, with a attainable guanaco within the space immediately behind us. This put us in her path, and he or she didn’t appear in any respect bothered by the concept of crossing intently. It’s moments like this, the place you need the wildlife to have a totally clear path, one unobstructed by vacationers, as a photograph is rarely value impacting the wildlife and their pure behaviour.
She got here down the hill at fairly a velocity, undoubtedly on the hunt, so we couldn’t shift the autos for concern of spooking her, and as an alternative, stood very nonetheless, shifting again slowly and gathering collectively within the hope she would discover a protected path between our group and one other that had arrived.

Earlier than crossing although, she stopped. Mere meters from us. Maybe it was our presence, maybe she heard or smelt one thing, however as an alternative of continuous her route, she paused, rotated, and slowly wandered again up the hill.
To observe as she sauntered by means of the panorama, mixing in with the coirón grass, Calafate and guanaco bushes, a determine that forces you to stare in awe, was so particular.
Taking a deep breath, we jumped again on the bus, rapidly checked the photographs we captured, and realised it was solely 10am.
There was a complete day of images forward.
Can you see her amongst the panorama? That is little question the rationale I by no means noticed any after I was travelling solo.
Conservation in Motion
In accordance with analysis supported by organisations like Rewilding Chile, the Tompkins Conservation legacy, Torres del Paine now has one of many highest concentrations of pumas anyplace on the earth. This success is because of many years of cooperation between conservationists, landowners, and ecotourism operators who’ve remodeled public notion of those huge cats. What was as soon as battle has turn out to be coexistence.
In the present day, trackers and guides play a vital position in sustaining that stability. Their presence ensures each customer security and minimal stress for the animals. Many trackers, together with these working with Kali Travels and Adventures, are native to the area and deeply related to its ecosystems; their information not solely will increase the probability of sightings but in addition helps long-term monitoring of puma behaviour and motion.
Wildlife Images – Photographing Pumas within the Wild
For this expertise, I used to be utilizing the OM SYSTEM OM-1 MKII paired with the M.Zuiko 40-150 mm F2.8 PRO lens and the MC-20 2× teleconverter, giving me an efficient attain of 300 mm on a Micro 4 Thirds system. The setup supplied each versatility and velocity, permitting fast response to motion whereas sustaining sharpness and topic isolation.
Listed here are a number of ideas for photographing pumas and different wildlife in Torres del Paine:
- Use silent mode. The OM-1 MKII’s digital shutter is invaluable when working round simply disturbed animals.
- Stability. In case your digicam doesn’t have nice stabilisation, you may brace your self towards a car, rock, and even bend down and use your knee. The OM-1 MKII has extremely good in-built stabilisation, so even with shaking, chilly arms, I used to be fantastic snapping away, even on the longer focal lengths.
- Purpose for eye-level perspective. Whereas it wasn’t attainable to step into the sector, taking pictures low by means of the grass enhances intimacy and locations the animal inside its setting. I used a small bush beside the highway to try to add a way of place and texture within the foreground.
- Look ahead to behaviour. Stretching, yawning, scanning the horizon, these moments inform tales far past a static portrait. Often too, they’ll occur quick, so each persistence and commentary is essential!
- Maintain distance and respect boundaries. The most effective photographs come from persistence, not pursuit.
See under picture that highlights the distinction with utilizing grass as a foreground texture/bokeh blur to anchor the puma as the important thing topic within the body, and draw all consideration to her. The picture on the left is with no foreground, the picture on the fitting is shot by means of some shrubs so as to add a pop of color and take away the vast majority of distractions and surrounding particulars.

For the rest of the day, we travelled alongside the gravel roads to quite a few viewpoints, from Laguna Amarga to Lago Pehoé. I used to be so completely happy a few of our stops had been beforehand positioned I’d photographed within the autumn season, seeing them once more in Spring was lovely, with chicken life, completely different colors, and slightly extra wind, was lovely.
Take a peek under at another photographs I captured on my Day of Journey with Kali Travels and Adventures, in the course of the ATWS in Puerto Natales.







Journey and panorama photographer from Australia who is much extra comfy in a pair of flippers than heels! Having labored for publications comparable to Lonely Planet, Wanderlust and the Sunday Instances, Lisa based The Wandering Lens to share vacation spot guides to the worlds most photogenic locations and out of doors experiences.
