The Sphinx. The Pyramids of Giza. Desert moons, Valley of the Kings, spices, music, the Nile.
As a baby, I used to be fascinated by the tradition of historical Egypt – papyrus scrolls, King Tut and the tombs pharaohs had been buried in for eternal life. Flicking by way of the pages of the Nationwide Geographic Egypt guide my mom gave me impressed my curiosity about what appeared like one other world.
Lately, my final bucket record journey grew to become a actuality. Visiting Egypt – my first journey to the African continent – reignited my childlike marvel for the primary time in many years. It nonetheless feels surreal to say that I’ve lastly skilled the Motherland.
Going through my fears
When Intrepid invited me and a few of my transgender and physique positivity advocate friends to affix a tour of our selecting, the stress was on. It felt like a as soon as in a lifetime proposal, and whereas I explored all of the choices – Antarctica, South East Asia, Vietnam, locations I’ve dreamed of going for years – Egypt saved resurfacing in my thoughts.
And but, I stubbornly thought to myself – if not now, then when?
As a visual transgender human rights advocate, I’m used to travelling to locations the place political and social attitudes in the direction of transgender and queer individuals differ. However on this occasion, the considered travelling for leisure, relatively than advocacy work, as a Black trans girl, to a rustic with quite a few anti-LGBTQ+ legal guidelines and attitudes, introduced a quiet concern that I couldn’t shake.
It’s unlawful to be transgender or gay in Egypt and the nation has been shunned by human rights advocacy teams around the globe for its aggressive transphobic and homophobic legislation enforcement.
And but, I stubbornly thought to myself – if not now, then when?



Eye-opening adventures
In late 2022 I landed in Cairo prepared for an ‘Indiana Jones’ fashion Premium Egypt journey. I knew that Intrepid prides itself on its group journey experiences that absorb all of the highlights whereas additionally encouraging you to get to know the native individuals and tradition on a deeper degree – and I discovered that it lives as much as that goal in so some ways.
I’d by no means finished group journey earlier than and didn’t fairly know what to anticipate. However I quickly realised I used to be surrounded by like-minded travellers from around the globe who shared lots of the identical aspirations for his or her first tour of Egypt as I did.
Our first journey? Seeing the Nice Pyramids at dawn. From there we adventured by camel, ate kushari (a tasty combination of pasta, rice, lentils and fried onions) with locals at a avenue meals restaurant, toured museums full of historical artifacts and had cocktails by the pool at our lodge, studying extra about one another and our components of the world. We went on to go to the spice markets in Aswan, tour the Nile by riverboat, trip a felucca to the Nubian villages and sizzling air balloon over the Valley of Kings collectively (I’d encourage everybody to participate within the latter – even in the event you’re afraid of heights like me!).
A particular second that stays with me is seeing the hieroglyphs and representations of Hatshepsut, a visibly gender nonconforming pharaoh. Seeing your self represented in historical past – particularly as each a Black individual and a trans girl – is phenomenal.






Suggestions for visiting Egypt as a plus-size LGBTQ+ traveller
As an LGBTQ+ traveller, your private security is at all times in your thoughts – that’s the truth. Daring as I could also be, I’ve to steadiness being visibly transgender whereas additionally being respectful of the land I’m visiting, its individuals and its customs.
Listed below are some steps you may take to make sure you have a wonderful expertise.
Journey with a bunch
Should you’re LGBTQ+ and determine to go to Egypt, travelling on an organised group tour will help scale back any anxieties you might have. I spoke to Intrepid employees prematurely and so they took my security considerations into cautious consideration, working behind the scenes with airline, transportation and lodge employees to make sure I had one of the best journey doable.
To be trustworthy, I used to be anticipating a white, cis, male, British chief however was pleasantly shocked to study that Intrepid hires native individuals wherever doable. I felt additional comfy travelling with chief Eman, a neighborhood Egyptologist and feminist Muslim girl who’s blazing a path in a male-dominated business.
Pay attention to native legal guidelines and customs
It’s vital to contemplate native legal guidelines and customs. For instance, in locations like Aswan and Luxor, ladies don’t smoke in public. Males don’t share lodge rooms, and ladies gown modestly even within the excessive desert warmth. Sure, guidelines and attitudes are extra versatile for vacationers, however I additionally assume following native customs and values wherever doable is an indication of respect.
My sisters Diamond and Breonna struggled with the modest gown codes, however they tailored and on the whole individuals appreciated that we had been making an attempt. I believe for this reason, whether or not they knew it or not, individuals engaged the three of us – all Black, American, transgender ladies – in dialog, which I believe can solely assist to shift perceptions of trans individuals total, simply by advantage of us making a bit of effort.
Go at your personal tempo
As a plus-size traveller, touring historical temples and websites within the warmth might be bodily gruelling. There have been people in my group who do CrossFit and marathons and even they had been wiped by the tip of every day. You’ll be doing a lot of strolling, scrambling over rocks and squeezing into tight areas – so gauge what you are able to do and modify accordingly.
For me, generally that meant staying behind because the group crawled on all fours to get right into a tiny tomb. At some point, I skipped a temple go to to remain in my room and relaxation. You’re the guardian of your care, and I’m proud I pushed myself to maintain up with the group as a lot as I might, climbing out and in of feluccas and mountain climbing hills to the villages. I took care of myself every time I felt I had reached my restrict and communicated with my information when and the place I would want to change.
On the finish of the day, everybody desires what you need: a very good time and a memorable journey. Additionally, Egypt shouldn’t be a spot for cute sneakers (belief me, I ruined a pair of designer sandals). Sacrifice your have to match your outfit together with your footwear in favour of tennis sneakers with assist – you received’t remorse it.
Aria travelled as a visitor of Intrepid on our 9-day Premium Egypt journey. Observe her adventures on Instagram @ariasaid.
