By Steven Shattuck
Individuals typically ask me what was my favourite part of the triple crown, and for the previous decade my reply has all the time come fast. The Wind River Vary on the Continental Divide Path. Distinctive within the Rocky Mountains with it’s sharp granite peaks, giant lively glaciers, and abundance of excessive alpine lakes, it stood out to me as essentially the most stunning mountain vary I had hiked by way of within the decrease 48.
The majority of the vary is throughout the Wind River Wilderness space or the Wind River Indian Reservation, making it roadless and remoted. Any journey into the center of the vary requires nice efforts, and even larger rewards! I’ve been again a number of instances since mountain climbing the CDT in 2015, however in 2025, my companion Grace and I prioritized our time without work for the Andrew Skurka variation of the Wind River Excessive Route, realizing that we wished to do that backpacking journey whereas our canine, Ama, was nonetheless in her prime at six years previous. Regardless of the challenges this route introduced, I used to be assured that Ama may do that, and knew there have been many exits and alternates to get us on path if mandatory. We additionally invited our good mates Michelle and Guthrie, who had been keen to affix.
We selected the week of Labor Day, which is probably going the most well-liked time for hikers to head out on the WRHR as a result of lack of bugs and snow, and cooler days with extra regular climate patterns. Regardless of these positives, twice within the final decade I had set apart this identical week with my hopes set on getting out on the WRHR, however each instances smoke stopped me from leaving my dwelling in Colorado to move on the market. That’s the threat you are taking planning a later journey. This time, we had higher luck, and there was not a main smoke occasion once we began the journey.
Skurka’s model of the Wind River Excessive Route is simply shy of 100 miles, and usually requires only a few logistics or planning. You want a allow from the Wind River Indian Reservation, which is simple to acquire in Lander earlier than you are taking off. You additionally both want to order a shuttle (there are lots of shuttle providers in Lander and Pinedale), or drop your individual autos. With 4 of us and a canine, we took two autos and self shuttled.
We deliberate on eight whole days mountain climbing for the journey. We wished to take it simple, and present sufficient time for Ama to have the ability to sustain. Sometimes, WRHR hikers don’t resupply. For a 100 mile hike, it usually isn’t mandatory. Nonetheless, with taking a canine, we had extra meals than I used to be in a position to carry. I referred to as many providers to ask a few meals cache, nevertheless people who supply these providers all closed for the season the weekend earlier than Labor Day. Fortunately for us, our good mates POD & Disco had been each free, and prepared to do a multi-day hike to drop all of our meals for 4 days in the midst of our hike. We’ll perpetually be of their debt for this excellent gesture!
With the entire planning and logistics set, we had been prepared for the journey, spending an evening in Lander. The one query mark was Ama. She’s a terrific mountain climbing and operating companion, and has been on many lengthy backpacking journeys. She will be able to simply push over 20 miles a day repeatedly on path. However this could be totally different, as it’s not on path. After an early morning dropping the automobile off on the Northern terminus and doing a little final minute getting ready, we set out from Bruce’s bridge simply after midday, with hopes of attending to decrease deep creek lake. This primary 14 miles are all on simple path, and that made for a pleasant and straightforward begin to the journey.
The next morning, we awoke early and began the trek up the southernmost thirteen-thousand-foot mountain, Wind River Peak. The going was gradual with giant, heavy packs. As we crested above tree line, we received our first view an lively glacier under Surveyors Notch, and the sharp granite peaks to the north. As soon as on the summit, we had been greeted to expansive views to the north, together with the well-known cirque of towers and Gannett Peak, the best level in Wyoming.
We took all of it in earlier than heading down what’s also known as the crux of the WRHR, the West Gully off of Wind River Peak. Recognized for a way steep it’s, the hazard is in rockfall, and having Ama with us, I rigorously picked our route down the unfastened gully. A lot to our shock, the West Gully didn’t reside as much as the thrilling dying entice that we’ve heard it described as, and we received down safely fairly simply, splitting into two teams to keep away from being in one another rockfall path, and having Ama out entrance with me.
We regrouped earlier than Lake 11,185, a glacial blue lake under thousand-foot granite partitions, and bridged the hole within the lake with a fast plunge. We adopted the valley down round Black Joe Lake and all the way down to Large Sandy Lake. Issues modified shortly as we hit the exiting Labor Day crowd, and after passing solely two different hikers in our first day and a half, we had been passing a whole lot of backpackers as we headed up Jackass Move and into the Cirque of Towers. Exhausted from our first full day, we camped beneath the well-known climbing towers of Wolfs Head, Pingora Peak, Warfare Bonnet peak and Pylon Peak.
The third day had us on and off path, finally resulting in the East Fork River, veering away from the crowds and the paths. Stunning alpine meadows result in excessive alpine peaks in a slender valley. After miles of lovely tundra, we crested on the lateral moraine parallel to Lake 10,566’, with Raid Peak towering above the gorgeous blue waters. For me, this was the spotlight of the route. The views had been unimaginable, and we had been feeling good after a comparatively simple day. We resolve to not push it, and name it a day early within the afternoon, tenting simply above the lake. All of us took a dip within the lake and loved a relaxation earlier than the shade of the towering partitions to our west overtook the valley.
The next days consisted of attractive excessive alpine passes and plush valleys crammed with strings of lakes and wildflowers. A private favourite was Photograph Move, the place the views trying south to Pronghorn Peak, Dragon Head Peak, and Nylon Peak stand tall and proud within the distance over Lee Lake. We received our resupply at Europe Move, and had no issues getting ourselves and Ama over the third-class obstacles to succeed in the gorgeous Europe Peak. From right here, we may see each the beginning of the route at Wind River Peak, and the upper peaks to the north that marked the tip of the vary and route. We felt good, and had been assured transferring ahead.
Nonetheless, on the fifth day our fortunes modified. After getting up Douglas Peak Move, we descended into the gorgeous Alpine Lakes Basin. An attractive abyss of piano-sized boulders, it made for a enjoyable rock hop. Nonetheless, we didn’t discover how sizzling the darkish rocks had been within the mid-day solar, and had been late to note the way it was affecting the pads of Ama’s toes. By the point we noticed her reacting to it, she had worn the pads of her toes down so far that they had been bleeding. To make issues worse, a darkish cloud of ash approached shortly, and shortly we had been in a thick cloud of smoke and ash from the Greenback Lake Fireplace simply to our west. Though we weren’t in any hazard from the fireplace itself, the smoke was all consuming. We seemed for a spot to camp, and tended to Ama’s toes. I felt terrible to haven’t observed how unhealthy her paws received, and realized what a predicament we had been in, being in one of the crucial distant components of the journey with no simple exit. We made a plan for the next morning, and fortunately, she had recovered sufficient that she moved nicely with rubber canine booties on her back and front paws.
After a terrific day the place Ama actually pulled by way of, we determined to take the glacier path alternate to the tip. This gave us peace of thoughts that Ama would make it, as her paws appeared superb on path, however the warmth of the rocks actually aggravated her pads. The mountain climbing got here a lot, a lot simpler, and far to our shock Ama acted simply superb on the path, regardless of prior struggles.
After six and a half days, we completed the route. Exhausted, we celebrated a incredible journey with burgers and beers in Dubois, grabbing many canine treats and toys for Ama, who proceeded to sleep for the following three days. Having had time to mirror on the journey, I’ve had time to consider what I’d do in another way, and what I feel I received proper.
I’d have introduced two units of everlasting canine booties, versus one set, and a number of disposable rubber booties. I’d additionally carry additional athletic tape to assist the rubbing Ama encountered from the everlasting booties. I additionally wouldn’t carry two instances the common quantity of every day pet food, as Ama simply didn’t want it. I feel 1.25x or 1.5x would have been lots ample.
Additionally, with the load of my pack, I possible would have left my digicam, tripod, and further lens at dwelling. The added consideration of taking good care of Ama took away from my power I wished to place forth into images, and I ended up utilizing this far lower than it was value.
What I did proper was selecting a bigger quantity, framed backpack that would carry an extra load greater than I’m accustomed to, and the Mariposa was excellent for this journey. It allowed me to hold every little thing for myself, in addition to nearly all of Ama’s meals and different objects (rain coat, chilly climate coat, sleeping pad, and so on.). Regardless of a a lot larger base weight and meals weight with a canine, this backpack carried every little thing comfortably, and rode nicely balancing the load between my hips and shoulders.
For a sleep system, we used Neo-Air Uber Gentle pads and a Large Agnes Tiger Wall 3, which I’d classify extra as a 2.5-person tent, excellent for 2 adults and a canine. The Wind River Excessive Route is a formidable problem by itself, full of steep off path mountain climbing and a large amount of elevation change. Trying it with a canine added extra further problem than I imagined, primarily within the added weight, in addition to the added psychological power spent caring for a canine’s paws and physique by way of one thing like this. Our canine is incredible off leash, and as a herding canine, by no means left our facet. Nonetheless, she struggled on the warmest days with the warmth of the rocks on the pads of her toes, and that added a good quantity of stress to the journey, in the end pushing us to take a large detour on the finish of the route to make sure her security (and ours).
If I had been to do it another time, I’d nonetheless take Ama. However I feel it’s a one-and-done in phrases of long-distance, high-alpine routes along with her. She does incredible mountain climbing up excessive peaks in Colorado – however day after day with out reprieve, and the necessity to hike mid-day in the pinnacle made it tougher than I imagined it will be going into it.
