The engine cuts out. The sails fill. The boat tilts simply barely to at least one aspect and begins to glide. Quietly, easily by way of water so clear you possibly can depend the rocks six meters down. That second, someplace between Brač and Hvar, is why you come to Croatia on a crusing journey.
We spent 5 days on a catamaran with Extra Crusing, a Swedish-run operator that hosts skippered crusing journeys out of Trogir, simply outdoors Cut up. It wasn’t my first time on a sailboat and never my first time in Croatia, nevertheless it was the primary time I felt like I lastly understood the rhythm of Croatia.
Right here’s the way it went and what you’d have to know to plan one thing related.
Overview
Attending to Cut up
The airport sits throughout the bay from town, however getting in is simple. Two buses run the route. The Platanus airport shuttle (which changed Pleso Prijevoz in February 2026) departs proper outdoors arrivals and prices €10 in peak season, €9 low season; the journey is 40 minutes to at least one hour relying on visitors and drops you on the prepare station and harbor. For those who’re watching the price range, the Promet Cut up metropolis bus (Line 37) boards from the principle highway about 100 meters from the terminal and prices €3 per particular person on board, although it takes longer and stops extra typically.
A taxi or Uber from the airport at present runs round €35–50 (metered, with a set airport beginning fee).
One Day in Cut up
We arrived the afternoon earlier than the boat journey and had a couple of hours that day, plus a brief morning the subsequent. For a single in a single day, you don’t want something fancy.
We stayed at Finest Location Rooms (Ul. Vlahe Bukovca 11), within the Bačvice district. It’s a couple of 10-minute stroll to Diocletian’s Palace and the outdated heart, and solely steps from Bačvice seashore. We took the smallest and least expensive room. Tiny, however clear, and precisely what you want for one night time. For those who’re staying longer, their bigger rooms are value a glance.
The meals you bear in mind in Cut up received’t be those you grabbed on the Riva out of comfort; they’ll be those the place you sat barely off the principle drag and let the night stretch. Ask the employees at your lodging for suggestions. They’ll know who’s cooking one thing value consuming that day.
And we have now lined these two matters as nicely, with additional two journey suggestions:
Boarding the Catamaran
Test-in on the catamaran is often between 3:00 and 5:00 p.m., relying on how shortly the cleansing crew finishes after the earlier group. If climate and timing cooperate, the skipper often will get transferring immediately.
We headed on to Mala Luka Bay on the island of Drvenik Veli for the primary night time, a quiet anchored bay, a light-weight welcome meal, and a sundown that didn’t want any assist from us. That is the best way to begin: no city, no noise, simply the boat rolling softly when you watch the sky go darkish.
Truthful warning about that first night time: your physique isn’t used to the boat’s movement, and most of the people have unusually vivid goals. By morning, although, you get up to silence, an open bay, and somebody already making espresso. Julia, the crew member who sorted meals on our journey, was often up round 7 a.m., had breakfast prepared earlier than most friends had correctly opened their eyes, and turned on music round 8 a.m. to ease everybody into the day. That element alone is underrated.
Life on Board: What a Typical Day Appears Like
When you’re within the rhythm of it, the times comply with a satisfying sample:
- Get up, have breakfast on deck
- Sail for 2 to a few hours
- Anchor in a bay for a swim and lunch
- Sail on (or motor if there’s no wind)
- Arrive at a harbor with an outdated city within the late afternoon
- Exit for dinner, have a drink or two, get again earlier than midnight
Meals ashore is dominated by Dalmatian and Balkan requirements: grilled meat, fish, fries, the occasional salad. Pizza is in every single place. That’s all tremendous, however in order for you one thing a step above, not costly simply higher, it takes some native information. That’s precisely the place the crew earns its place. Comply with their restaurant suggestions with out query; we weren’t let down as soon as.
Stomorska, Šolta — First Cease
Our first lunch cease was the village of Stomorska on the island of Šolta. Skipper Julian anchored within the bay and ferried us ashore within the dinghy. We had about an hour to discover.
About Stomorska: Stomorska is the oldest coastal settlement on Šolta, positioned within the northeastern a part of the island, 12 km by highway from the principle port of Rogač. A small fishing village with a everlasting inhabitants of round 250, it may host roughly 500 vacationers in summer season, which retains it pleasantly calm in comparison with the larger Dalmatian locations. The harbor is lined with conventional stone homes and some cafés; outdated picket fishing boats sit a couple of meters from fashionable yachts.
The village has a protracted maritime historical past: its sailors as soon as owned cargo ships and transported wheat, lime, and different items throughout the Adriatic to Cut up. Amongst sailors, Stomorska can also be identified for a richer and extra different meals scene than different Šolta villages.
Milna, Brač — Harbor City Definitely worth the Cease
From Stomorska, we sailed a brief distance to Milna, on the western aspect of Brač.
About Milna: Milna sits on the northwest coast of Brač and is taken into account the most secure pure harbor on the island. The title is assumed to derive from the Venetian-era phrase Valle di mille navi (the bay of a thousand boats), which provides you a way of how lengthy sailors have been pulling in right here. Based on the finish of the sixteenth century across the Cerinić household fort, the city has a small outdated heart of stone buildings organized round a harbor that draws the whole lot from native fishing boats to giant yachts.
There are two marinas (together with ACI Milna), which collectively supply over 200 berths. A number of pebble coves (Pasika, Osibova, Lučice) sit inside simple dinghy attain of the bay.
We ate at Restaurant Bago (Bijaka mala 13), a brief stroll alongside the harbor towards the seashores. We had fish and pork. Each typical dishes, however the location makes it. Two terraces look out over the water, and the seafood often comes from the proprietor’s personal catch. Bago is run by a working fisherman, and the wild fish on the menu is often no matter got here in that morning.
The crew additionally beneficial two alternate options value noting:
- Kantun Meals & Wine — a wine cellar with over 25 years of historical past, providing native fish from their very own catch, do-it-yourself pasta, and wines from native producers.
- Pizzeria / Konoba Slika — a strong, no-fuss possibility for pizza and Croatian consolation meals, constantly ranked among the many prime eating places in Milna.
Uvala Smrka — Chilly Battle in a Bay
One of many extra sudden stops was Uvala Smrka, a quiet bay on the south aspect of Brač. As you stroll by way of a number of the coastal cities in Croatia, you continue to discover the marks left by the Nineteen Nineties conflict. Smrka has its personal model of this, within the type of the underground Yugoslav naval tunnels reduce immediately into the rock.
In regards to the Smrka tunnels: The tunnels at Uvala Smrka had been constructed throughout the Yugoslav period as a secret base for submarines and quick assault vessels. The tunnels are round 80 meters lengthy and the seawater inside is roughly 10 meters deep. The doorway was designed to be hid from aerial reconnaissance. Since being decommissioned within the Nineteen Nineties, they’ve been utilized by native fishermen for shelter throughout storms and have change into a vacation spot for sailors, historical past fans and divers. Entry is free.
Our skipper launched the dinghy and we went in. It’s eerie and oddly lovely. The water inside is similar darkish blue-green because the Adriatic, the tunnel ceiling shut overhead. After that, we had lunch on the boat and Sarah jumped into the water from the highest of the catamaran. In Could, the water is noticeably cooler than in summer season, however that didn’t cease her.
The Finest Half: Really Crusing
After Smrka, we set the sails once more. And this, for me, is all the time the spotlight.
While you flip off the engine, the whole lot adjustments. No vibration, no noise. Simply the boat tilting gently and the sound of water transferring alongside the hull. The skipper let me take the wheel, and we talked by way of how one can discover the precise angle into the wind, how one can learn the devices, and what it takes to carry 6–7 knots in mild situations. Ask all of the questions you may have. It’s precisely the type of hands-on expertise that’s exhausting to copy wherever else.
We had been heading for Stari Grad on Hvar, watching the sails and the compass, adjusting for the wind.
After which: three dolphins, monitoring in direction of us for a couple of minutes earlier than disappearing.
Stari Grad, Hvar — One of many Oldest Cities in Europe
About Stari Grad: Stari Grad (which means “outdated metropolis”) is without doubt one of the oldest constantly inhabited cities in Europe. It was based in 384 BC by Greek colonists from the island of Paros, who named their settlement Pharos; that title is the origin of the island’s fashionable title, Hvar. The city was later held by the Romans, then settled by Slavs, and remained the island’s fundamental heart till the Venetians moved the seat of energy to Hvar City within the medieval interval. The encircling Stari Grad Plain, an agricultural panorama of fields, stone partitions, and shelters laid out by the unique Greek colonists within the 4th century BC and nonetheless largely intact at this time, was individually inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Web site in 2008. The city itself is quiet in comparison with Hvar City: narrower alleys, fewer crowds, extra stone and extra historical past.
My trustworthy tip: don’t come right here or to Croatia in July or August. Late Could by way of June, or September and October, are if you get the ambiance with out the lots.
Wander the alleys, go slowly, and for those who’re searching for a small memento that’s really attention-grabbing somewhat than generic, search for Num Atelier (Ul. dr. Ante Starčevića 2), a small gallery store a couple of steps from Tvrdalj Sq. exhibiting the work of native artist Jovan Brajović, founding father of the Moria Affiliation.
The place to Eat in Stari Grad
Jurin Podrum (Ul. Duolnjo Kola 11) is the place I’d ship anybody with out hesitation. It’s a family-run restaurant that has been cooking Dalmatian meals since 1917, set on a slim medieval alley within the outdated city with each stone-clad indoor seating and tables squeezed outdoors. They develop their very own natural greens and produce their very own olive oil.
I had the wild boar with do-it-yourself gnocchi, slowly braised for hours in candy wine and rosemary sauce. One of many proprietor’s signature dishes.
There’s a enjoyable aspect be aware to that: the wild boars on Hvar swam over from the mainland years in the past, fleeing a wildfire. The island now has its personal small inhabitants.
The proprietor additionally beneficial the cuttlefish stew, which I didn’t do that time, nevertheless it’s on the listing for subsequent time.
Just a few different choices value realizing:
- Restoran Marko (Pizzeria & Spaghetteria) — Open all 12 months, dependable for pizza, pasta, and broader Dalmatian dishes, proper on Trg Ploča sq.. Good in order for you one thing constant and unpretentious.
- Restaurant Albatros (Ul. Jurja Dalmatinca 1) — A family-run seafood restaurant in a centuries-old stone home simply off the principle sq. and 50 meters from the harbor. Sturdy on grilled contemporary fish and conventional Dalmatian dishes; the proprietor makes his personal olive oil, bread and home wine.
- Tramonto Bar – Lanterna — For a sundowner, that is the place. A few 10-minute stroll from the middle alongside the waterfront, on Put od Lanterne, with the perfect sundown view in Stari Grad and a relaxed ambiance. Rated the highest nightlife spot on the town.
Again to Trogir
The subsequent morning we set sails one final time, heading again towards Trogir. On the best way, we stopped for lunch within the bay of Nečujam.
About Nečujam: Nečujam sits within the largest bay on the island of Šolta, about 9 nautical miles from Cut up. Its title comes from the Latin Vallis Surda (“the Deaf Bay”) a reference to the bizarre acoustic stillness of the broad, sheltered inlet.
The bay has two distinct characters: the jap shore has a seashore, an inflatable water park and the same old summer season infrastructure; the western and deeper elements are virtually silent, with small coves and virtually no growth. Snorkelers and freedivers come for the Kontesa, a 25-meter picket vessel initially inbuilt 1943 as a WWII cargo ship, later transformed to hold vacationers alongside the Croatian coast, that rested simply half a meter under the floor after sinking throughout a storm a long time later.
The bay has a historic footnote too: Emperor Diocletian reportedly used the smaller interior coves as fish ponds whereas his palace was being inbuilt close by Cut up.
Native residents round Nečujam have launched a petition for the safety of the bay’s sea and seabed, with the village council warning that some coves have been overrun by uncontrolled anchoring, sewage and gasoline discharge, and waste dumped immediately into the water.
The sunken Kontesa is now flagged as a hazard in addition to a curiosity. None of this implies it’s best to skip Nečujam, nevertheless it does imply the way you behave on board issues.
For those who’re crusing in Croatia: anchor on sand, not on posidonia meadows (the darkish patches you possibly can see from above); by no means discharge holding tanks or bilge water inside a bay; carry your garbage again to a marina; tip the dinghy ashore somewhat than tying off to bushes; and select operators who do the identical.
Croatia’s coast holds up as a result of most sailors deal with it like somebody’s front room, as a result of for the folks in these villages, it’s.
We arrived in Trogir late afternoon and timed it completely. We obtained the catamaran to the pier, and about 3 minutes later a rainstorm rolled by way of. An hour after that, the sky was clear once more and we went to discover the outdated city.
About Trogir: Trogir is a small island metropolis within the Cut up-Dalmatia area, linked to the mainland and to the bigger island of Čiovo by bridges. Its origins return to the third century BC, when it was based by Greek settlers. What makes it outstanding is the density of intact structure inside its tiny footprint, about 500 meters east to west, starting from Romanesque church buildings to Renaissance and Baroque buildings gathered over centuries of Venetian rule. UNESCO acknowledged this in 1997 and listed Trogir’s historic heart as a World Heritage Web site. Strolling it at nightfall, after the day-trippers have left, is a genuinely totally different expertise.
For dinner we went to Franka (Šubićeva ul. 30), which is pricier however delivers. As of Could 2026 it’s ranked #1 of 120 Trogir eating places on Tripadvisor with 1,183 evaluations and a 4.8 score, and it holds a MICHELIN Information itemizing for its modern Mediterranean meals. It’s tucked into the alleys close to the bridge on the mainland aspect.
Word: Franka closes throughout the low season (sometimes November by way of Could), so examine earlier than you go. The meals is a step above the same old konoba fare… correct execution, good native wines.
Different strong choices in Trogir:
The Final Day: Scooter to Primošten
Checkout from the catamaran is at 8 a.m. The cleansing crew arrives, the galley crew heads out to resupply… and also you’re left with a full day earlier than your night flight. For those who’ve already seen Trogir and Cut up, that is the half the place a plan helps.
My resolution: hire a 50cc scooter from Joke – Bike & Scooter Rental (Put Dragulina 13B, Trogir). I paid €28 for six hours, however examine present costs if you guide. The advice had been to go to Primošten, however public buses there are rare, and a taxi again from Primošten to the airport ran €90–120 a technique. With the scooter, it took about 45 minutes every manner and we had full flexibility and extra enjoyable.
About Primošten: Primošten is a small city in Šibenik-Knin County, between Trogir and Šibenik. The outdated city sits on what was initially an island, now linked to the mainland by a causeway. The title itself comes from the Croatian phrase primostiti, which means “to bridge”. The historical past goes again to the sixteenth century, when a fortified settlement was established there throughout the Ottoman invasions. At this time the outdated city retains a maze of cobbled alleys and conventional stone homes on the slim peninsula, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and clear water. The seashores Mala Raduča and Velika Raduča, simply outdoors the outdated city, are among the many most nice pebble seashores on this stretch of coast.
We drove as much as the lookout reverse the bay and walked as much as the statue of Our Woman of Loreto, which sits on the hill of Gaj, round 173 meters above sea degree. The mosaic-clad statue is roughly 17 meters tall, was unveiled in 2017, and represents a bond between Primošten and the Marian shrine of Loreto in Italy. On a transparent day, the view stretches throughout the islands of the Šibenik archipelago. It’s an uncommon mixture of spiritual monument and spectacular viewpoint over the coast.
We returned the scooter, stuffed the tank (about €6 of gasoline), and made the airport with time to spare.
About Extra Crusing — If You Wish to Strive One thing Like This
For those who learn this and assume the format seems like what you need, the operator I went with is Extra Crusing. I’m writing about them as a result of I had the journey, not as a result of we have now any industrial association.
Two issues make them totally different from the usual Croatia constitution market. First, you guide a single cabin somewhat than the entire boat. Most constitution corporations will solely hire you the complete yacht. That is tremendous in case you have eight or twelve associates and a fats group price range, awkward for those who’re a pair or travelling solo and don’t need to arrange a small crowd to make the maths work. With Extra Crusing you flip up with one or two folks, get a non-public cabin on a catamaran or monohull, and share the widespread areas with seven or so different friends plus a skipper and host.
Second, the journeys could be totally hosted: a Swedish-trained, English-speaking skipper handles navigation and security; a bunch prepares breakfast and lunch on board; dinners are ashore within the harbor cities every night. You don’t want any crusing expertise to step on board.
The corporate was based in 2009 on the west coast of Sweden by sailors who wished to make this sort of journey accessible to individuals who’d in any other case by no means constitution a ship. They function from Trogir (subsequent door to Cut up airport) and run routes by way of Šolta, Brač, Hvar and Vis, which is kind of what you’ve simply examine. Otherwise you set sail with them within the Caribbean, in Greece, in Italy, or in Sweden.
Sensible Suggestions
- Finest time to go: Could–June or September–October. Higher climate for crusing, fewer folks ashore, and simpler restaurant bookings. July and August are lovely however crowded and costly.
- Attending to Cut up airport: The €10 Platanus airport shuttle is the simple default; the Promet Line 37 metropolis bus is the €3 price range possibility. A taxi or Uber at present runs €35–50.
- What to carry on board: Layers for the night even in June, sunscreen, a hat, grip sneakers for the deck, and movement illness tablets for those who’re undecided the way you’ll deal with it.
- Meals technique: Belief the crew’s restaurant suggestions. For on a regular basis meals ashore, the usual konoba fare is dependable. For a memorable dinner, ask for the precise native suggestion. The crew will know the place the kitchen is definitely good.
- Crusing time: On a visit like this, anticipate 2–4 hours of precise crusing per day. The remainder is anchored in bays or docked on the town.
- Swimming in Could: The water is noticeably cooler than in July or August, nonetheless swimmable, however carry a brief wetsuit for those who’re delicate to chilly.
- Final day planning: In case you have a protracted airport wait on the finish, contemplate the scooter choice to Primošten. It’s round 45 minutes from Trogir, unbiased of any bus schedule, and much cheaper than taxis for spherical journeys.
- Checkout is at 8 a.m.: Be able to go. The cleansing crew doesn’t wait and the subsequent group has a schedule too.
Ceaselessly Requested Questions
How a lot does a week-long catamaran crusing journey in Croatia value?
Costs range significantly by operator, season, and boat sort. A hosted catamaran journey with a skipper and a crew member protecting meals sometimes runs within the vary of €1,000–€2,500 per particular person for five–7 days, relying on the cabin sort and the way far prematurely you guide. You’ll additionally have to price range for dinners ashore, drinks, and any entrance charges; roughly €30–60 per day extra.
Is crusing expertise required to affix a catamaran journey in Croatia?
No. On a hosted journey with a skipper, no crusing expertise is required. The skipper handles navigation and the boat; you’re free to take part as a lot or as little as you want. Most skippers are blissful to let friends take the wheel and study the fundamentals throughout the crossing.
What’s the greatest time of 12 months to sail in Croatia?
The crusing season runs from Could to October. Could–June provides delicate temperatures, fewer crowds, and good wind situations; the ocean is cooler however nonetheless swimmable by mid-Could. July and August are peak season with lovely climate however crowded anchorages, increased costs, and packed harbors. September and October carry heat, calmer seas, and a noticeably quieter ambiance ashore.
How do you get from Cut up Airport to town heart?
Take the Platanus airport shuttle from outdoors arrivals. It prices €10 (€9 low season) and takes 40–60 minutes to the prepare station and harbor. The Promet Line 37 metropolis bus boards about 100 m from the terminal and prices €3 per particular person. A taxi or Uber runs €35–50 and takes 20–half-hour relying on visitors.
Is Stari Grad on Hvar value visiting as an alternative of Hvar City?
Sure, particularly for those who’re arriving by boat and touring outdoors peak season. Stari Grad is without doubt one of the oldest cities in Europe, based by the Greeks in 384 BC, and is much quieter than Hvar City. It has good eating places, walkable medieval alleys, and a UNESCO-listed agricultural plain outdoors city. Hvar City has extra nightlife however is considerably extra crowded in summer season.
Are you able to go to Primošten as a day journey from Trogir?
Sure, however examine the bus schedule rigorously, as connections are rare. Renting a scooter from Trogir (I paid round €28 for six hours; examine present charges) is a way more versatile possibility, takes about 45 minutes every manner, and leaves you free to go to the lookout above city and the Woman of Loreto statue at your personal tempo.
