A Fast & Soiled Information to the Peaks of the Balkans Path

For hikers of a superstitious bent, the prospect of trekking by means of the Balkan’s Accursed mountains could evoke greater than somewhat trepidation. And up till pretty not too long ago, this nervousness would have been wholly justified on account of the truth that the area was one of the harmful areas on the earth. Nonetheless, for the reason that flip of the millennium, the Balkans have undergone an unbelievable transformation. What was as soon as a no-go zone has now begun to open its doorways to vacationers, together with backpackers wanting to expertise its long-hidden pure wonders on foot.  

The Peaks of the Balkans Path is a 192 km (119 mi) loop hike that passes by means of the spectacular borderlands of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. Linking collectively characterful mountain villages by means of shepherd’s paths and unpaved forestry roads, the whole circuit (there are a number of iterations) consists of 10 levels and will be tackled independently or as a part of an organized group. I hiked the Peaks of the Balkans Path with Kate “Swept Away” Pickett within the fall of 2023, as a part of an prolonged journey within the Balkans area and Greece.

(Word: The Peaks of the Balkans Path is likely one of the featured hikes in my sixth and newest e book with Gestalten publications, Wanderlust Mediterranean (which was launched internationally final week). The e book options 26 unbelievable hikes from across the Mediterranean area, together with day journeys, multi-day classics, and multi-month thru-hikes). 

At a Look:

Distance:  192 km (119 mi) 

Common Period:  10 days (Word: Stronger hikers carrying a light-weight pack can do it in six or seven days. For these serious about a extra mellow schedule, together with a zero-day and a few facet journeys, it may possibly take as much as 12 or 13 days). 

Issue Degree: Reasonable

Start/End: The Peaks of the Balkans is a loop hike that may be began and completed in numerous places. The most well-liked (and best to entry) are Theth (Albania), Pejë (Kosovo), and Plav (Montenegro).

Whole Elevation Achieve & Loss: 12,020 m (39,436 ft)

Origins: The Peaks of the Balkans Path was established in 2012 by means of a joint effort of the German growth company GIZ and native and nationwide motion teams. The venture’s persevering with objectives are to foster a way of cross-border unity, help in defending the area’s wildlife, and assist native inhabitants create a sustainable type of eco-friendly revenue. 

Overview map of the Peaks of the Balkans Path (Photograph from the Peaks of the Balkans Web site – See Planning beneath).

Highlights:

• Dawn from Tromedja (“Three Border”) Peak.
• The magical karst panorama round Prosllopit Cross.
• Magnificent views from Pejë Cross and the following descent into Theth. The identical goes for Valbone Cross and its namesake valley. 
• Historical beech forests
• Sampling native delicacies within the villages alongside the route.
• The unbelievable hospitality of the Balkans folks.
• It’s probably not a spotlight, however one of the affecting elements of the hike was the juxtaposition between dramatic pure magnificence and the remnants of the area’s latest somber historical past (See Notes & Musings beneath).

Vast-ranging vistas from the summit of Tromedja (“Three Nations”) Peak (2,366 m/7,762 ft).

Wandering by means of stunning karst panorama on the way in which to Prosllopit Cross (Albania).

Starting the descent to the village of Vusanje (Montenegro).

Getting There & Away:

• From a logistical perspective, Plav in Montenegro is probably the most easy beginning and ending level. From the nationwide capital of Podgorica, it’s just below 4 hours’ journey by bus, and there are 4 day by day departures. Essentially the most scenic alternative is arguably the mountain village of Theth in Albania. It’s a 2.5-hour bus trip from Shkodër (Albania) and one other 90 minutes from Podgorica.

Plav (Montenegro) is the largest city on the Peaks of the Balkans Path.

The emblematic church of Theth (Kisha e Thethit in Albanian).

Season:

• Late Might to early October. Wildflowers are at their peak in June, August is the warmest month, and fall colours start in early October, which additionally historically heralds the primary snowfalls.

Wild campsite on the climb to Prosllopit Cross (Albania)(Shelter – Tarptent Stratospire 2).

Planning Assets: 

• Guidebooks: Trekking the Peaks of the Balkans Path (Cicerone Press) by Rudolf Abraham has an in depth abstract of the hike, together with trekking notes, fundamental maps, facet journey recommendations, distance and time estimates, and logistical info. The e book is out there in Kindle or paperback. For German audio system, I’ve heard good issues concerning the Peaks of the Balkans Information by Max Bosse and Kathrin Bosse-Steinweg.

• On-line: The Peaks of the Balkan Path’s official web site is a strong place to begin to your analysis. The location features a stage-by-stage breakdown and a few helpful planning info. On the time of writing, presumably the very best on-line useful resource is shoesyourpath.com. Run by a French couple named Quentin and Charlie, this glorious web site incorporates a great deal of logistical information (e.g., permits, journey, finances, lodging, and so on.), an in depth day-to-day diary, facet journey recommendations (particularly the magnificent Grebaje Valley), and a few superb pictures from their journey.

Descending from Valbone Cross into its namesake valley (Albania).

• Cell/Cellular Cellphone Protection: On the time of writing, you’ll possible have protection in Plav, Theth, and (presumably) a number of the excessive factors. A lot of the guesthouses alongside the route have Wifi.

• Permits: The Peaks of the Balkans path crosses backward and forwards between Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. Earlier than setting out, aspiring thru-hikers might want to receive a cross-border allow. Whether or not strolling independently or with an organized group, probably the most hassle-free manner of doing that is on-line through a good native tour operator. We used the Albanian-based Zbulo.org, which offered fast and inexpensive service (Word: It’s advisable to ship your software at the least two weeks prematurely of departure).

Resupply & Water:

• Meals: Most meals alongside the Peaks of the Balkans Path will be procured on the route’s homestays/lodges. Tariffs usually embrace hearty meals that include homegrown produce akin to cured meats, bread, cheese, yogurt, and greens. Dinner is typically washed down by beneficiant servings of the native firewater rakija, a power-packed fruit brandy discovered all through the area. Concerning grocery shops, your finest choices are in Plav and Theth; the previous has a far wider vary of decisions at extra inexpensive costs.

• Water: Potable water can all the time be obtained on the villages alongside the route. In between settlements, hikers ought to filter or deal with water as a result of prevalence of grazing animals alongside a lot of the path.

A hearty second breakfast of do-it-yourself bread, peppers with a decadent quantity of churned cream, espresso, and a large mound of scrumptious fries (Grla Restaurant in Vusanje, Montenegro)(Photograph Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett).

Kujtim Gocaj Guesthouse within the village of Çerem presents hearty meals, together with lodging.

Route/Situations: 

• The Path: From a distance perspective, the Peaks of the Balkans Path is cut up pretty evenly between Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo. The path traverses some distant areas, linking collectively small villages through mountain paths and little-used forestry roads. The way in which is marked by totally different variations of pink and white markers, together with the occasional “Peaks of the Balkans” signal.

Photograph Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett.

Photograph Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett.

• The Terrain: The Prokletije (“Accursed”) Mountains constitutes the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps, a mountain vary that stretches roughly 700 km (435 mi) from Italy within the northwest to Albania within the southeast. Notable for its placing karst topography, whereas passing by means of the Accursed Mountains, hikers will traverse glacially-sculpted valleys interspersed with a sequence of excessive passes, rugged limestone peaks, crystal-clear tarns and lakes, sinkholes, and yawning caves. 

• A Historical past of Hospitality: The Peaks of the Balkans Path presents hikers an insider’s perspective on the area’s conventional pastoral life. Due to the appearance and development of the path, some locals have transformed rooms of their properties to accommodate hikers, so as to complement their seasonal farming and shepherding incomes. The lodgings are normally easy however clear, and what they could lack in trendy facilities, they make up for within the heat welcome of their hosts. Treating vacationers as honored company reasonably than transitory strangers is nothing new to the folks of the Accursed Mountains. Hospitality has all the time been an integral a part of native tradition, and such is its significance that it was truly codified into conventional Albanian regulation (Kanun).

Approaching the seasonal village of Dobërdol (Albania).

Alternate Routes:

1. Valbona to Ceremi through Prosllopit Cross – Although longer and more difficult than the “official” lowland route through the Ceremi River, the path over Prosllopit Cross is likely one of the scenic highlights of the Peaks of the Balkans and not-to-be-missed.

2.  Kosovo Lower-Off Choices: The entire Peaks of the Balkans Path takes round 10 days to finish. The most well-liked alternate routes – which shave off round two or three days or 20-30 % of the path – bypass a lot of the Kosovo part (a few of which is routed alongside paved roads). That is normally accomplished by leaving the official route in the course of the Stage 4 part between Dobërdol (Albania) and Milishevc (Kosovo). The principal departure factors are as follows:

A. The saddle slightly below the summit of Tromedja (Three Nations) Peak. From there it’s 5 km (3.1 mi) WNW to rejoin the primary path at a junction simply above Lake Hrid (Montenegro);

B. Round 6 km (3.7 mi) north of the Tri-Peaks saddle near Roshkodol Cross (Kosovo). From this level, it’s just one.3 mi (2.1 km) to rejoin the primary path, positioned simply west of the small village of Babino Polje (Montenegro).

C. The village of Milishevc (Kosovo), from which hikers can stroll simply over 5 km (3.1 mi) due west to reconnect with the primary path at a signed junction on the Kosovo/Montenegro border ridge. 

Peak hour visitors leaving Valbona (simply earlier than the turn-off to Prosllopit Cross).

Arriving at Prosllopit Cross.

Sleeping:

• Tenting is feasible, however most hikers use homestay lodging in villages alongside the route. 

• The principle overnighting factors alongside the route are as follows (in a counter-clockwise route starting in Theth): Theth (Albania), Valbona (Albania), Cermi (Albania), Dobërdol (Albania), Milishevc (Kosovo), Reka e Allagёs (Kosovo), Drelaj/Restaurant Te Liqeni (Kosovo), Babino polje (Montenegro), Plav (Montenegro), and Vusanje (Montenegro).

• Our Expertise?: We wild camped apart from a few nights in Theth and Dobërdol.

Bashkimi Guesthouse in Dobërdol (Albania).

Notes & Musings:

Somber Remnants of Latest Historical past

Through the Peaks of the Balkans Path hikers will encounter common reminders of the area’s war-torn previous within the type of deserted guard towers, cemeteries, and concrete-domed pillboxes positioned on prime of lonely mountain passes. A couple of hundred thousand of those small bunkers will be discovered all through the picturesque Albanian countryside, all of which had been constructed on the behest of the Communist dictator Enver Hoxha between the Sixties and Nineteen Eighties. The juxtaposition between pure magnificence and somber historical past is placing.

Concrete-domed pillbox on the Peaks of the Balkans Path.

The Lock-in Tower of Theth

Aside from its well-known previous church, probably the most notable human-made web site in Theth is the 400-year-old ‘lock-in’ tower (“Kulla” in Albanian). This double-storey stone constructing was as soon as a secure haven for locals engaged in blood feuds with neighboring clans. It was in these spartan confines that an individual who was marked for retribution would spend weeks (and even months) in hiding. Lengthy a part of conventional Albanian tradition, blood feuds (“gjakmarrja” in Albanian) had been a social or familial obligation by which an individual was entitled to “a watch for a watch” within the title of honor. The fortified tower is now a museum. Opening hours are sporadic; if it’s closed if you arrive, of us in neighboring properties will open it upon request.

The Kulla of Theth.

Inside of the Kulla in Theth (Photograph Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett).

Dawn from Tri-Nations Peak

The next story is from the “Writer’s Anecdote” part of the Peaks of the Balkans Path in Wanderlust Mediterranean: 

“The views you need to work for occasionally resonate probably the most. Placing forth additional effort makes the reward simply that little bit sweeter. That was exactly the case when Kate and I ascended Tromedja Peak (2,366 m/7,762 ft), the famed mountain that straddles the border of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. 

The earlier night, we arrived late into the distant settlement of Dobërdol (Albania). We had been hungry and somewhat weary on the finish of a protracted, chilly, and moist day on path. Upon reaching the charming alpine hamlet, we made a beeline for the Bashkimi Guesthouse. There, we managed to acquire the final out there room and, inside 20 minutes, sat right down to what was a much-anticipated meal. Some pals who had beforehand hiked the path had spoken glowingly concerning the high quality of meals on provide at Bashkimi. The fare included bottomless bowls of soup, recent backyard salad, tasty potatoes, and a scrumptious savory pie by the title of Byrek, an Albanian staple that consisted of spinach and feta between skinny layers of phyllo. After a strong two hours of feasting, we waddled again to our room and referred to as it an evening. 

The next morning, we rose earlier than 5 am. After brewing espresso and gobbling down some snacks, we donned our layers and headlamps and set off. The temps had been south of freezing (we had been mountaineering in early October), and apparently, we had been the one ones up and about. Quickly after leaving the guesthouse, we handed a lone tent on the village outskirts. The inhabitants had been simply waking, and within the useless calm earlier than daybreak, we might clearly hear the yawns, rustling of plastic luggage, and one of many campers colorfully exclaiming, “It’s #*!#@* freezing on the market! I’m going again to sleep.”

Persevering with on, the going was extraordinarily steep, and the “path” was something however clear within the pitch darkness. Nonetheless, Kate and I huffed and puffed our manner up the slope and located ourselves on the height’s shoulder some 40 minutes after leaving the guesthouse. After one other 20 minutes of scrambling, we had been on the summit, simply in time to gaze east to see the solar’s emergence over the peaks of the Balkans. The 360-degree panorama was a jaw-dropper in each route. Soaking within the soothing heat of the morning rays, we sat down and loved a second breakfast of cereal and powdered milk. Out within the wilderness, even the only of meals style nice. We had this magnificent mountain prime all to ourselves, and we couldn’t assist however suppose how lucky we had been to be welcoming in a brand new day from such an attractive place.”

Photograph Credit score – Kate “Swept Away” Pickett.

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