Author Sean Sebastian explains how one can see Mykonos and Santorini on a Greek island-hopping journey with out the crowds.
My packed bus pulls as much as Piraeus harbour, Greece’s most important entry level for crusing to the nation’s confetti of islands, as we slot neatly alongside a stately line of different tour buses and coaches. Peering out the window, I see lengthy trails of vacationers weaving their approach in direction of the docks, clustered in teams exterior huge ferries.
After boarding, I slowly make my approach via the decks, the place each seat has been rapidly claimed by innumerable better-prepared travellers.
Ultimately, I discover myself on the deck, the place I sit on my bag subsequent to different equally unfortunate travellers and watch the Aegean Sea open up in entrance of me. The waters which have claimed a thousand cliches about their distinctive shade of blue really stay as much as their status.
Because the ferry involves a halt at Mykonos’ port a number of hours later, the passengers rapidly huddle at exits able to launch floods of bleary-eyed vacationers into the scorching Mediterranean solar.
Two days later, I climate the identical anxious, sweaty expertise so as to go to the most well-liked Cycladic island: Santorini.
However even among the many lots of vacationers, I discover it inconceivable to not fall in love with every island.
Mykonos, with its whitewashed buildings and pristine shoreline, is a heady mix of conventional cities and beachside bars. In the meantime, Santorini exhibits off meditative blue-domed surroundings stacked alongside volcanic cliffs, in addition to nice hikes and unparalleled sunsets.
Up to now, so guidebook. And, sure: each are important on any Greek island-hopping journey. However on the identical time, it’s simple (and typically devastating) to witness how they’ve discovered themselves on the frontline of the worldwide wrestle with overtourism. So, if you could find quieter corners, free from the crowds (as I did), why not whisper about them (very quietly) in an effort to journey extra responsibly?
Mykonos
Sunsets: Little Venice or Boni’s Windmill
Cycladic sunsets rival the Aegean Sea of their attraction of a great cliche – however for good cause. Together with everybody else, I discover myself beginning each evening on the islands quietly watching the sundown with a chilly beer.
Crowds flock to the sundown bars of Mykonos City, particularly across the Little Venice space, and sure, it will get very busy. However when you have the money to splash, it’s nonetheless a enjoyable spot to lift a toast within the golden hour mild.
Nevertheless, if, like me, you solely find the money for an inexpensive bottle of wine, why not strive climbing uphill to the primary highway on the japanese fringe of city and sitting in entrance of Boni’s Windmill, a derelict hilltop landmark constructed within the sixteenth century? From this vantage level, I watch the sundown slowly contact all of Mykonos City, bathing the unsuspecting vacationer throngs under.
Seashores: Ornos and Agios Ioannis
Mykonos has a status for its seashores. And certain, in the event you’ve turned up with a gaggle of associates and also you’re all within the temper for some ingesting, Paradise, Tremendous Paradise and Kalua all provide all-day beachside events that slowly evolve into late-nighters.
Nevertheless, in the event you’d reasonably keep away from the crowds however nonetheless desire a buzzy environment, strive Ornos – residence to chilled restaurant-style spots akin to Pasaji. Sunbeds replenish in a short time, so arrive early. For the same vibe on the sands of Agios Ioannis, head to relaxed Hippie Fish seaside membership to hitch locals bathing within the lovely blue sea.
Learn extra: 5 quieter spots for a Greek Island getaway
Websites: Mykonos Chora (City)
A substantial chunk of the vacationers on my ferry to Mykonos head straight for the get together seashores, leaving Mykonos City comparatively quiet. Seizing the chance, even on the top of summer time, I’m capable of wander via the bougainvillea-draped streets and take within the sights with ease throughout the quieter daytime window.
Paraportiani Church – consisting of 5 particular person whitewashed church buildings – is a spotlight, particularly within the afternoon because the solar shines instantly via the bell tower. From there, I stroll down the coast and explored the well-known Windmills at Kato Mili, then head into city for a baked deal with from Gioras Wooden Medieval Mykonian Bakery. Afterwards, I indulge myself additional with a little bit of buying in a number of the city’s many boutiques.
Santorini
Sunsets: Profitis Elias Hill and Firostefani
As an island cradled round a dramatic caldera, Santorini is maybe even higher positioned for a sundown view, as most of its main cities sit lots of of metres above sea degree, trying down over the volcanic drama. Naturally, there’s a unbelievable viewing level at the entire island’s fashionable hubs: Fira, Imerovigli, Oia and Firostefani.
I wrestle to discover a snug view among the many crowds at Fira, even after wandering down alleys and backstreets for a glimpse. Nevertheless, my favorite views materialise at Firostefani – barely lesser identified and a strong 20-minute stroll alongside the coastal path from Fira. From right here, you’ve got the added bonus of with the ability to watch the sundown cascade over these iconic white buildings and their incumbent crowds, whereas not really having to battle for elbow room with them.
Profitis Elias Monastery is one other nice sundown hang-out, I uncover. Sitting on its namesake mountain 567 metres above sea degree, it’s the very best level on the island. To get there, hike the four-kilometre path from Pyrogos or soar in a taxi.
Learn extra: What a crusing journey in Greece is basically like
Seashores: Baxedes Seaside, White Seaside and Vlychada
Santorini doesn’t provide anyplace close to as a lot sandy beachside lounging as Mykonos. However because of its volcanic panorama, there are many pebbly and rocky bays the place you possibly can swim. One main contender is Perissa – a seven-kilometre, black-sand seaside the place you’ll discover loads of sunbeds, bars and eating places and calm waters sheltered by Mesa Vouno mountain.
If you happen to just like the bustle, you’ve got Kamari on the island’s east coast, or for a barely quieter choice, Kokkini Paralia (Crimson Seaside) on the south coast, aptly named for its deep purple sands and cliffs.
To get away from the crowds fully, your finest wager is to go to Baxedes Seaside on the north coast, White Seaside within the southwest or Vlychada – a 20-minute drive from Fira with black sand and volcanic cliffs.
Websites: the caldera rim and Akrotiri Archeological website
Although dormant, Santorini is an energetic volcano and the three-hour hike alongside the caldera rim from Fira to Oia is a should. With views of the ocean on one aspect and the dramatic volcanic rock forward, the stroll is considered one of my favorite experiences in Greece.
I encounter barely one other soul in sight alongside the best way, which supplies the bizarrely remoted church buildings alongside the best way an nearly eerie environment. I’m fortunate sufficient with my timing to discover a seat in considered one of Oia’s many cocktail bars, able to benefit from the view with a well-earned margarita in hand.
Akrotiri Archeological website is one other spotlight. This historic metropolis was beset by earthquakes within the seventeenth century BC, inflicting volcanic supplies to cowl the whole island. The stays now make up a very powerful archaeological website in Santorini. You’ll additionally be taught in regards to the Minoans and their spectacular developments. Do you know that they created the primary indoor rest room? Now you do.
Further ideas for avoiding crowds
- Go to within the shoulder season: Late spring (Could to early June) and early autumn (late September to mid-October) provide a great steadiness of nice climate and fewer vacationers.
- Keep in smaller villages: Staying exterior the primary cities tends to supply extra genuine native experiences.
- Early mornings and late evenings: Attempt to plan your key sightseeing and seaside time exterior peak afternoon hours.
Able to discover? Try Intrepid’s small-group adventures in Greece.
Initially printed in January 2019.
