3 day hike alongside NSW South Coast close to Eden
It appears odd to drive for six.5 hours to a major landmark (say, the 29 metre tall Inexperienced Cape Lighthouse) and never take a very good poke round. If this had been a typical day, I’d kick myself for not studying each interpretive signal I might, pausing to ponder life right here as a lighthouse keeper or gaze out on the yawning meld of blue, the place the ocean meets the sky. However immediately isn’t a typical day.
At this time is the beginning (right here on the finish) of my north-to-south journey, alongside the 32 km, $14.9 million new-look Gentle to Gentle (L2L) stroll. Over the following three days, I’ll stroll again to this spot having skilled one of many nice coastal walks of Australia, fulfill my curiosity in regards to the current modifications and what makes it one of many NSW Authorities’s seven ‘Nice Walks’.
Gentle to Gentle Transfers – Inexperienced Cape Lighthouse & Boyds Tower
For now, I’m locking my automotive within the revamped carpark and hiding my keys deep inside my pack. Our scheduled switch pickup is ready, and I’m a bit of embarrassed as driver Jess lifts my heavier-than-usual pack into the again of her Navigate Expeditions van.
The descriptions and topographic maps make the L2L sound extra like a strolling vacation than a difficult sufferfest, so it is just proper that my good friend Jon and I loaded up our folding chairs, wine, some contemporary meals and even the down booties! My status as an off-track scrub-lover is perhaps in danger, however I’m nothing if not adaptable.
The hour-long switch, alongside well-graded, eucalypt-framed fireplace trails, permits Jess to share a few of her immense data of the world and the L2L—her native interp was an sudden bonus!
Inspired by her endorsement of strolling north to south (as beneficial by NPWS), we might quickly study why because the low Winter solar warmed our backs.
Jess explains, ‘You’ll be able to stroll it in any course, however when you go south-to-north, you’re strolling into the solar—it’s consistently in your eyes.’
This wasn’t the primary time compass factors and course would shock us. However extra on that later…
Boyd’s Tower, the beginning of the Gentle to Gentle stroll, stands proud on the southern entrance to Two Fold Bay, close to Eden on the NSW South Coast, also called The Sapphire Coast. There’s nothing delicate about it – very similar to its authentic proprietor and namesake, rich Scottish-born entrepreneur Ben (Benjamin) Boyd.
Like a foreboding, deserted medieval parapet, the 23 metre sandstone tower speaks of chapter, human folly and greed. In-built 1847 as a lighthouse, it was neither accomplished nor authorised by the federal government for that function and reverted to a whale-watching tower to help Boyd’s whaling enterprise at close by Boyd City. Not one for humility, his title is inscribed on the high on three sides in giant letters designed to be seen by approaching vessels, proclaiming his place.
The identical yr the tower was constructed, Boyd’s tireless pursuit of economic success noticed him be the primary colonist to lure low cost, naive, indentured labour from New Caledonia and Vanuatu—a sort of slavery that will change into often known as Blackbirding.
Earlier than we set off, Jess continues the story by explaining how this space (named Ben Boyd Nationwide Park in 1971) gained a brand new title in 2022 – Beowa Nationwide Park – the native Thaua title for orcas (killer whales).
‘The native tribes had a symbiotic relationship with the orca and would follow cooperative looking collectively.’
Jess ~ Navigate Expeditions (Switch Driver)
Orca’s maintain a deep significance for the Thaua individuals. They noticed themselves as not solely buddies with the enormous apex predator, however dreamtime tales communicate of their ancestors reincarnated as these clever, lovely creatures—the most important of the dolphin species. On the L2L stroll, their picture helps present the best way on the delicate wayfinding totems.
Day 1 – Boyd Tower to Mowarry Campground – 9 km
Shouldering our beneficiant packs, we step away from the primary of the Two Towers, like Frodo and Sam from Tolkien’s story of the identical title.
Immediately, we’re transported right into a tunnel of tea tree (bracelet honey myrtle), probably the most dominant of the coastal heath vegetation we encountered. Gangly, wiry-like branches bowed overhead, creating eerie moments as we handed. It felt like faeries and even Tolkien’s Ents or Treebeard had been quietly watching us.
These TTT’s (tea tree tunnels) type a rhythm all alongside the Gentle to Gentle Stroll. They sign simply one of many numerous habitats we cross by because it weaves out and in of coastal scrub earlier than delivering us, birth-like, out onto lonely seashores, platforms strewn with rock swimming pools or elevated cliff high balconies.
Out and in, and ever-so-gently, up and down, the wealthy earthen single-track attracts us round bays and headlands as the dimensions of Boyd’s Tower shrinks again into the ocean mist.
Leather-based Jacket Bay’s easy, rounded rocks, simply 5km from the beginning, are good perches for lunch. A lone abalone shell, the primary of many, glowed below the dormant sky as close by NPWS area workers loved a break from the ultimate touches of the upgrades.
With solely 8 km on day 1 till the end on the walk-in Mowarry Campground, perched excessive above a pristine seashore, we made good time to take pleasure in a sundown that didn’t require filters.
The close by headland offered a wonderful viewpoint for each, though its orientation left us bewildered because the solar appeared to set within the north and rise within the south!
Day 2 – Mowarry Campground to Hegartys Campground – 10 km
Turquoise waters greeted us on Mowarry Seaside, starkly contrasting the dramatic Devonian purple rocks, laid down 360 million years in the past. Sea cliffs betrayed the uplifted folds of geological time, as layers rolled in on themselves, like a sea serpent trapped inside.
Grassy headlands, tightly mown by the mouths of red-necked wallabies, carried us on to a different standout habitat of coastal ecological communities, dotted with native grass and hakea meadows.
Onwards, the seashore at Saltwater Creek proved the proper spot for lunch, after a wet-foot crossing on the northern finish. Hidden behind the bushes is without doubt one of the outdated (automotive) campgrounds of the stroll. It’s standard with guests and sometimes books out within the hotter vacation months. It’s ongoing entry to websites like this that will increase flexibility in the way you stroll the L2L, by including exterior assist or the power to satisfy up with buddies alongside the best way.
Straining my eyes as we cross one other highland heath, I squint to see if I can see our ultimate vacation spot, the Inexperienced Cape Lighthouse, about 9 km because the crow flies.
There’s been a whole lot of this: straining to see. Every time we’re confronted with the ocean and the hope of seeing Beowa (orca) or one of many seven different whale species noticed off the shoreline in recent times, we’re upset. To date…
Buoyed by the strategy of an early golden hour, we arrive on the thickly forested tea tree glade of Hegartys Campground, the second of the brand new walk-in websites. The acquainted tent platforms really feel like they’re being hugged by encroaching melaleuca and she-oak on all sides. Right here, it is just the mild, ever-present waves lapping on the rocky shore that trace at how shut we’re to the coast.
Day 3 – Hegartys Campground to Inexperienced Cape Lighthouse – 13 km
The lazy vacation rhythm of the monitor noticed us take provides all the way down to the shoreline for a late breakfast and low by the rock swimming pools. Morning gentle caught sapphire hues by the spray of the waves, making it troublesome to peel ourselves away to pack up camp and begin strolling at a (very) leisurely 11 am. Don’t inform anybody, however this may very well be the final word chilled multi-day stroll. Throw in your cossie (particularly in hotter months) and also you’ll rapidly lose time with the swimming spots.
At this time unveils the most important change made to the Gentle to Gentle monitor, shifting the final part away from the viewless heath to intently hug the clifftops and low-level rock platforms, the place it holds quick to the place the water meets the land.
This present day can also be probably the most numerous for modifications in plant communities as we descend shallow gullies round Bittangabee Bay, the place the second authentic automotive campground stays. Right here, mountain gray gums and coast gray field give method to purple bloodwood and silvertop ash in pockets of dry sclerophyll forests.
Given the quite a few shades of inexperienced and presence of birdlife all through the stroll and campgrounds, it’s onerous to imagine that the complete area (besides the Inexperienced Cape Lighthouse precinct) was closely broken within the 2019-2020 bushfires.
Lunchtime finds us as soon as once more on the water’s edge, sheltering from the wind beside a pure rock wall. We’re midway alongside one other soccer field-sized rock platform, suspended excessive above the crashing waves under. As I take a chunk of my wrap, I pressure my eyes as soon as once more, scanning the blue for any signal of a distant splash.
‘Phfwale!’ I exclaim, mouth stuffed with tomato/cheese/inexperienced beans and jerky.
My good friend missed it, just like the flying jerky. Barely unconvinced, we each wait for an additional tell-tale signal. Earlier than our lunch had completed, we noticed one other two crashes, miles off shore, every one a bit additional to the north than the final. Alas, my companion and I should be away to the south!
The climate gods have been beneficiant with us, however we spy moody clouds and the unmistakable misty indicators of distant rain, each behind us and earlier than. If we push on, we’d beat it to the lighthouse.
The longest of the three days, my quads are beginning to really feel it as Greencape Lighthouse, the 2nd of our Two Towers, comes into view. The better elevation change (roughly 480 metres ascent over the day) is due to the dedication of maintaining the monitor to the sting of Australia. NPWS achieved this with a collection of recent metal staircases that yo-yo us all the way down to rockpools and again as much as every headland above. (TIP: Should you go away some gas within the tanks for the final 3 km, you’ll thank me.)
A vibrant rainbow streaks throughout the trail, connecting the lighthouse with the horizon, as a solar bathe surrounds us with tiny dancing crystal orbs.
Such pleasure within the second as we climb the final staircase to Inexperienced Cape.
Strolling the well-trod vacationer path beside the lighthouse, the sky erupts with pink, blue, crimson and gray; from the horizon and south over Nadgee Wilderness—A boundless golden pot on the finish of the Gentle to Gentle rainbow.
Prime Suggestions for the Gentle to Gentle Stroll
- Navigate Expeditions is the NPWS licenced operator of the stroll transfers
- Strolling monitor grade 4 – What does that imply?
- No campfires or firepits – gas stoves solely
- Ticks (together with small bush ticks) are frequent. Take precautions
- Platforms have mounted d-rings in strategic locations. Convey guy-ropes, low cost non-rated carabiners and cordage to safe non-freestanding tents
- Nice for individuals seeking to do their first multi-day stroll and households – preserve an eye fixed (and hand) on youngsters.
- Patchy cell phone protection – Optus and Telstra (2 bars max)
A model of this text first appeared in Nice Walks Journal.
