Three weeks, numerous reminiscences. From wandering historic fortresses within the quiet of evening to moments of kindness from strangers, our highway journey by way of Southern France and Northern Spain was filled with the sudden. Every cease — whether or not a hidden gem or a spontaneous journey — added a brand new chapter to our story.
An itinerary map of our highway journey for context.
Listed below are the highlights that also linger in our minds.
Journey Highlights: 24 Days of Moments That Nonetheless Reside in Our Heads
Fireworks Over Ujué – Mild within the Quiet
Our evening in Ujué, Navarra, felt suspended between centuries. The city itself appears carved out of the hill — cobbled lanes winding between stone partitions, doorways barely increased than your shoulder, the odor of wooden smoke drifting by way of the alleys. We arrived simply as night swallowed the final daylight and parked the van beneath the outdated fortifications. There wasn’t a soul in sight.
We wandered by way of the heritage space till the one open bar, which closed not lengthy after, our footsteps echoing off medieval arches. From the highest, looking over the plains at 10 pm, we noticed distant fireworks blooming over the valley close to Olite.
It was a type of nonetheless, unbelievable moments that really feel like journey itself is rewarding you for being affected person.
And endurance was wanted the following day as our infant grew to become sick, however that’s a story for an additional day.
Fog and Religion in Roncesvalles
The Pyrenean fog that greeted us the following morning wasn’t a drizzle or a cloud; it was an environment. Roncesvalles regarded like one thing out of a legend — all beech, fir, birch, maple, and oak timber, moist leaves, and muted bells. We had spent the earlier night in a welcoming pilgrims’ eating room, sharing a easy €14 menu: soup, pasta, trout, wine, bread. Round us had been folks from in every single place — Korea, Germany, Argentina, the States — most strolling the Camino.
That dinner was greater than meals. It was a quiet communion with strangers who would begin strolling at daybreak, whereas we continued by highway. The subsequent morning, when the fog rolled in thick and the forest swallowed the highway forward, we understood why folks name this stretch sacred. You don’t see the trail; you are feeling it.
Lourdes – A Techno Cathedral of Religion?
Beneath Lourdes, the underground chapel provides a serene and sacred retreat for reflection and prayer.
Lourdes is a paradox — religion and commerce, devotion and spectacle, historic ritual and trendy sound system. Pilgrims shuffle towards the grotto, filling the air with murmured prayers and the tender flicker of hundreds of candles. However what actually struck us was underground: the Basilica of St. Pius X, a colossal concrete chamber buried beneath the earth, able to holding 25,000 folks.
It felt like a religious velodrome, huge and echoing. The lights pulsed gently, the air hummed, and someplace within the distance, organ music from a parade that was going down outdoors. It was equal elements reverent and surreal — like a techno competition for the religious. We left dazed, someplace between perception and disbelief, and rolled south towards the mountains once more.
Gerber Lake and the Witch Path – Magic and Mud
We spent three days in Val d’Aran. On the final day, we set out early to succeed in the Gerber Lakes, tucked excessive amongst granite slopes. The primary one — Estanyola de Gerber — was an ideal mirror surrounded by silence so deep it rang in your ears. The path main up there grew rocky, too steep for a toddler’s small boots and health, so certainly one of us stopped halfway with out remorse.
That’s the rule of journey with a baby: you don’t conquer; you adapt. And sometimes, the smaller victories — reaching one lake, discovering a easy stone, watching clouds curl over a ridge — are those that stick with you.
The day earlier than, between Vielha and Baqueira, we discovered Tredós’ Camí de les Bruixes, the Witch Path — a brief woodland path dotted with carved figures and legends from native folklore.
The Tredòs Witch Path is a 2 km family-friendly path by way of forested surroundings with carved “witch” figures and a small waterfall.
Our daughter ran forward, stopping fastidiously close to the picket witches and their huts, asking questions on each one. It was one of many easiest walks of the journey, and one of the vital magical.
The Sudden Kindness of Montgarri
Montgarri, within the Catalonian Pyrenees.
Montgarri sits on the finish of a protracted gravel highway within the Baqueira Beret snowboarding area that appears to go nowhere. We hiked there, hopeful, with Asia on her 3-wheeled youngsters’ scooter, following a river by way of meadows and shepherd huts. Nevertheless, when it was time to get again, we realized it’d all flip darkish throughout our return.
Attending to Pla de Beret from Montgarri
I began asking guests in the event that they’d be going again to el Pla de Beret (Beret plains) by automotive, as we may undoubtedly use a experience. Nevertheless, I had zero luck with that. Till an area staying at Refugi de Montgarri, seeing us drained and operating late with no clear plan, supplied a experience again to the principle highway. There was one thing profoundly human in that gesture. He dropped us 2km from our motorhome, waved as soon as, and was gone.
Thanks, stranger!
Fageda d’en Jordà – A Forest That Breathes
The Garrotxa volcanic area is the place the world slows down. Beech timber rise from black volcanic soil, their trunks silvered by gentle, the air cool and heavy with the odor of earth. In autumn, the bottom turns to a mosaic of rust-colored leaves.
Mushrooms had been on level.
We walked slowly — not mountain climbing, simply drifting — by way of the Fageda d’en Jordà. Each step was muffled, each sound softened. At one level, our daughter stopped as large mushrooms surrounded her. The forest wasn’t silent — it was alive, pulsing quietly round us.
Baqueira Beret – Views for days
I imply, have a look at this.
Baqueira valley, Spain.
Banyoles – The Nonetheless Water
After days of curves and climbs, Banyoles Lake felt like balm. The water stretched nonetheless and silver, damaged solely by geese and the occasional ripple from a breeze. We discovered a shady spot close to the water to park our rig and spent a paused day close to the Olympic space.
Collioure – French Attraction at a Slower Tempo
One more good in a single day parking spot close to Collioure.
After we crossed again into France, Collioure felt like a sigh of reduction. Pastel homes, hilly slim lanes, and a small harbor the place painters nonetheless arrange their easels simply as Matisse and Derain did a century in the past. We walked slowly by way of the port, shared galettes, and dipped our ft earlier than taking a bus again to our motorhome parking spot, just a few km up north in one more coastal paradise.
Collioure doesn’t ask a lot of you — it solely asks you to remain lengthy sufficient to fall beneath its spell. And we did.
Cadaqués and Cap de Creus – The place Artwork Meets the Sea
Cadaqués, like Collioure, additionally has a rhythm all its personal: artists and fishermen, galleries and guitars, whitewashed partitions that odor of salt and paint. On a Saturday evening, the city glows with rumba music drifting by way of the streets and households strolling the promenade with ice lotions in hand.
No higher technique to discover the coast!
The subsequent day, we walked from our parking spot to the closest seashore in Portlligat and launched kayaks towards Cap de Creus. Clear waters, imposing cliffs, and rocky seashores awaited.
Cala Montgó – The Cliff Rescue
The Cami de Ronda close to Cala Montgó is a scenic coastal path providing sea views and quick access to hidden coves.
Cala Montgó was the one place we stayed multiple evening, and it earned it. The bay curved like an ideal half-moon, clear water shimmering in opposition to the limestone cliffs. We swam, dried our towels on the van mirrors, and eventually stopped attempting to maintain seeing extra for some time.
One afternoon, we adopted a cami de ronda up the cliffs, chasing what regarded just like the logical technique to coast our technique to L’Escala from Cala Montgo. It wasn’t. The trail ended abruptly at a drop, leaving us with a three-year-old, her mobility support, and no method again however to do a 180-degree retrace. Simply because the final sunbeams reached the seashore, an area couple fishing close by, cheerful as angels, supplied us a experience again into city.
Riells and L’Escala are coastal cities on the Costa Brava, identified for seashores, seafood, and a relaxed Mediterranean vibe.
They saved us from a protracted, sweaty ordeal — and dropped us off simply in time to look at the solar soften into the ocean within the close by city.
Monasterio de Piedra – A Wonderland in Aragon
Hidden in Aragón’s parched inside, Monasterio de Piedra was a revelation. The panorama had been dry and ochre for hours when instantly, out of nowhere, we discovered ourselves strolling beneath waterfalls, quaint bridges over emerald lakes, and caverns dripping with golden afternoon gentle.
The sound of speeding water echoed by way of the outdated monastery gardens, the place monks as soon as lived amongst cascades and fish ponds. It was a type of locations that feels geographically unattainable, and spiritually restorative. Even after weeks of pure magnificence, this oasis left us speechless.
Bodegas Pandora – Wine, Dialog, and Heat
In Rueda, Bodegas Pandora crafts crisp, fragrant white wines from Verdejo grapes.
We reached Rueda beneath an early-morning solar and stopped at Bodegas Pandora, a cool new vineyard the place nothing felt staged. The information poured us glasses of crisp Verdejo straight from the barrels and talked about climate, soil, and endurance. No advertising, no hurry.
We left with just a few tales after a terrific tasting session, the proper midway level between journey and homecoming.
The Last Nights – Household, Associates, and a Style of House
The highway west become a string of reunions. An extended lunch with Asia’s great-grandmother in Tordesillas, the desk crowded with tasty dishes and laughter.
Beers and tapas that become an impromptu Benavente dinner with José’s outdated school gang, tales looping again through the years.
The principle church in Benavente, Iglesia de Santa María del Azogue, incorporates a mix of Gothic and Renaissance structure.
The subsequent morning, earlier than hitting the highway once more, we wandered by way of the Parador, the outdated library, and the principle church, their calm interiors a quiet pause after the evening earlier than.
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- Parador de Benavente
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- Benavente’s predominant library
And eventually, in Vilardevós, on the final night of the journey: my buddy María and her companion, Baba, who cooked domoda, a Senegalese stew so wealthy and comforting that it felt like closure itself.
The home stuffed with youngsters, spices, and tales from the highway.
Different Little Moments That Stayed With Us
- The toddler’s sneaker that flew out the van window on a cross-country freeway.
- Just a few nights of “emergency pizza,” virtually one too many.
The highway from Baqueira to Beret winds uphill by way of tight hairpin curves, providing each problem and gorgeous views.
- The nerve-wracking hairpin bends on mountain roads within the Pyrenees as we had been leaving an electrical storm behind.
- The conclusion – as soon as once more – that boondocking in Spain and France isn’t simply allowed — it’s addictive.
- The rhythm of the highway itself: the gradual hum, the regular ahead movement, the sense that life is wider than we’re compelled to consider.
The La Peulla (Bonaigua) parking marks the place to begin for the Gerber Lakes hike.
If We Might Bottle It…
If we may distill 24 days into 5 moments, they’d be these:
- Watching fireworks over Olite from Ujué’s Romanesque fortress church.
- Forest bathing within the Pyrenees enchanted forests.
- Paddling beneath the cliffs of Cap de Creus.
- Being helped by strangers in Montgarri and Cala Montgó.
- Sharing domoda and laughter on the final evening.
Horses typically share the highway on the best way to El Pla de Beret, including a contact of native appeal to the drive.
Wanting again, it wasn’t simply the locations that made this journey unforgettable — it was the moments in between. The quiet nights in small cities, the sudden acts of kindness, and the sensation of wandering with no mounted plan.
As soon as once more, it wasn’t about the place we had been going, however about having fun with the experience.
Inquisitive about how we made all of it occur? Try the full itinerary, detailed map, and breakdown of prices for our 3-week highway journey — it’s filled with suggestions that will help you plan your personal journey!
