19 km grade 3 stroll linking Wentworth Falls to Katoomba
Heralded as a ‘new’ stroll, the Grand Cliff Prime Stroll is an easy-to-follow grade 3 observe alongside the Jamison Valley escarpment, on Gundungurra Nation, that has been fashioned by linking previous tracks identified to us locals (and people who can learn maps) for years. Most of the sections are a part of my every day walks, so when Nice Walks Journal requested me to put in writing an article concerning the rebranded route, I knew I needed to expertise it via recent eyes and in a brand new (to me) method: over the NPWS beneficial two days.
On this model of the article, I’ve included extra particulars on the logistics, with hyperlinks to beneficial lodging, experiences and meals choices. Huge because of all of the native companies and individuals who supported this journey via Blue Mountains Tourism and to my fellow walker, Briar (she of the blue shirt) who can be writing about it for different journey publications. Checkout my Insta Reel – 2 days in 90 secs!
Day 1 // Wentworth Falls to Leura – 11km
Because the 8.12 am practice from Central lumbers into Wentworth Falls Station, faculty college students shoulder heavy backpacks for his or her day forward. Swinging mine into place, relieved to really feel the floatiness that comes from a light-weight day pack, there’s a jaunt in my step as I make my method beside the fantastically dressed store home windows of this tidy Blue Mountains village.
With a bag like this and 19 km of grade 3 observe forward of me, it’s onerous to imagine I’m within the Larger Blue Mountains World Heritage Space with all the things I want for the subsequent two days.
Positive, I’ve acquired the traditional suspects like a primary support package, sunscreen, water and a raincoat on board, however not even my favorite selfmade scroggin made the minimize. The one barely uncommon addition is a spare pair of underwear, PJs, cossie and my toothbrush.
That is inn-to-inn strolling at its finest.
The idea is easy: Hike through the day carrying simply the necessities, then eat, drink, sleep and loosen up within the villages alongside the way in which. No tent, no sleeping bag and no heavy pack.
This traditional European type of multi-day mountaineering, like a Camino (or pub-to-pub within the UK for a unique sort of spiritual expertise), is what makes the brand new (however very previous) Grand Cliff Prime Stroll (GCTW) distinctive within the Blue Mountains. Historically a area that requires self-sufficiency with full packs for in a single day walks, the GCTW welcomes hikers who take pleasure in exploring native communities together with the pure atmosphere and the comforts of vacationer lodging.
Assembly my buddy exterior Fed Cafe, we seize a wonderful espresso and wholesome takeaway lunch for the day. I’m impressed by the hiker-friendly snacks on provide akin to rolled oat and white chocolate cookies or fig and nut slice—these may be higher than my scroggin!
My native information tells me this stroll traverses the undulating clifflines alongside the northern escarpment of the Jamison Valley; crossing waterfalls, cascades and lookouts steeped in infinite, yawning views. Who is aware of the place starvation will interrupt our steps? I higher purchase two.
Crossing the Nice Western Freeway and turning down Falls Street, we arrive on the official begin of our journey – Wilson Park Picnic Space.
Getting into via the sandstone gates, there’s good interpretive signage to learn earlier than urgent onto this primary part of the observe, also referred to as Darwins Stroll. [Read this excellent article by another writer mate (and lauded outdoor guide up here, Dan Lewis, about why Charles Darwin’s name is lent to this track.]
It’s right here that we spy the primary black cockatoo. Not like most conferences with this well-known Blue Mountains native, this one isn’t preceded by the tell-tale squeaky door screech or yellow-feathered tail flash as they take to the skies. And though science has debunked the parable that they’re the soothsayers of unhealthy climate, the ponderous sky above foresees in any other case.
This cockatoo — the fashionable emblem of the observe, designed by native Gundungurra artist, Kelsie King (daughter of Uncle David King)— predicts straightforward navigation with method markers and arrows at key junctions.
Vacationers have been strolling tracks on this space for almost 150 years. It’s a part of an unlimited labyrinthine community of trails, some that date again to the late 1800’s work of grasp trackmaker and Irish immigrant, Peter Mulheran, the primary ranger for what was then known as the Wentworth Falls Reserve.
Only some ok’s in and his affect is seen alongside the route in low stone partitions, harking back to conventional Irish farm fences and stone water wells resembling pizza ovens. It doesn’t take a lot creativeness to image girls in lengthy frocks and ample petticoats, together with gents in stiff woollen fits, pausing on their amble to scoop water with a metal cup left behind for the general public’s comfort. There’s nonetheless crystal clear water on this effectively right now, however as with all water alongside this observe, it’s worthwhile to deal with it first.
It’s with the ghosts of Peter, the next thousands and thousands of vacationers who got here to ‘take the mountain air’ and the hundreds of years of Gundungurra individuals’s historical past, that my buddy and I step out on this numerous and wonder-filled Nation.
A lot has modified since Peter spent years toiling on these tracks, weathered by the seasons and circumstances. Right this moment’s track-building methods draw from a higher understanding of abrasion and the circulation of water, the emergence of launched English-style gardens within the cities above that carry seeds and invasive species into the dear Nationwide Park and the impacts of Sydney’s inhabitants, pushing 6 million individuals, simply an hour and a half away.
That is my yard, my residence. I’ve the luxurious of figuring out the best way to hyperlink tracks, shortcuts and lookouts into one elegant journey, making it as lengthy or quick as I would like. And herein lies the true nub of this joint NSW Nationwide Parks and Wildlife Service and Blue Mountains Metropolis Council initiative: linking collectively the earlier maze of historic tracks into one streamlined, cohesive journey—made straightforward to comply with by an iconic black cockatoo emblem and signage.
So when you’ve ever wandered alongside sections of the Prince Henry Cliff Stroll, Three Sisters Monitor, Katoomba Falls Reserve Night time Lit Stroll or Katoomba Cascades (Katoomba); the Charles Darwin Stroll, Below Cliff, Over Cliff, Princes Rock Monitor, Wentworth Falls Monitor, Valley of the Waters Monitor (Wentworth Falls), Pool of Siloam Monitor (Leura), … you’ve already ventured onto the Grand Cliff Prime Stroll!
I like to consider it just like the components of an amazing recipe; every one bringing totally different flavours, textures, colors and moods, but making a harmonious, single dish. A hearty, tasty minestrone of strolling tracks with a smorgasbord of lookouts, packaged up in a well-balanced path.
Mild rain surrounded us as we took within the first (of many!) must-see quick aspect journeys to Fletchers Lookout. One in all my favourites, this spot means that you can look down over the spectacular 187m drop of Wentworth Falls.
The roar via the mist under us felt just like the revving of our strolling engines and marked the primary of 4 key waterfalls that dissect the route: Wentworth Falls, Gordon Falls (50m), Bridle Veil Falls (55m) and Katoomba Falls (230m).
Off we go and the cockatoo reveals us the way in which alongside strong sandstone stairs, pure earthen observe and stepping stones as we peer via the curtains of cloud that swirl round us.
By addressing the degraded and badly eroded sections of the previous observe, the undertaking has homogenised troublesome sections of the terrain so it now sits comfortably inside grade 3.
Taking our time to plunge deeper into the dripping rainforest side-trip to Den Fenella Falls, we arrive on the Conservation Hut Cafe for morning tea. Buoyed by espresso #2 and a cheeky cake, I began to assume I may get used to this type of strolling!
Crossing the highest of Empress Falls, to the ‘woohoo!’ of canyoners under, the observe shimmies via dry sclerophyll and allo-casuarinas (pay attention out for these hungry black cockatoos!) behind the Fairmont Resort and Leura Golf Course. From right here, our buddy, the cockatoo, flew us alongside the 1.3 km part of highway, previous spectacular native houses to land us again within the Nationwide Park and heading for lunch.
With clouds closing in on us, we lastly succumb to raincoats. The sandstone faces of small cliffs tried to influence us to shelter for a dry lunch, however Briar humoured me to press on for lunch at one in every of Leura’s favorite delights—The Pool of Siloam. Right here, we rested and indulged within the takeaway lunch we purchased earlier from Fed.
Day trippers appeared, signalling that we had been nearing the tip of Day 1. Positive sufficient, it was solely 400 metres later that we emerged at Gordon Falls Reserve and commenced the mild 1.6 km uphill stroll in the direction of our lodging, dinner and particular end-of-day expertise at Blue Mountains Sauna.
This little piece of Finland, hidden behind Leura Mall, is the place you’ll discover 90c temps (adopted by a chilly plunge) to be the proper tonic in your bushwalking physique. You’ll have to pack your cossie except you go for one of many clothes elective classes (you’ll be able to lease towels and robes) and my sizzling tip is to e-book and full the waiver on-line upfront. It’s an excellent chill vibe and an amazing place to take a seat and ponder all you’ve seen through the day earlier than heading for dinner and lodging.
Out into the cool night time air, our our bodies nonetheless heat and tingling from the sauna, it was solely one other 500 m across the nook to the luxe selection of the 2 lodging choices we might expertise this journey: Varenna by Mountain Whispers. This enormous 1906 Edwardian guesthouse, can accommodate 8 individuals over 4 bedrooms, 2 of which have 4-poster beds. That is traditional, old-world mountains boujie lodging at its finest—good for a gaggle of pals who like a number of tasteful doilies and brass fittings. Proprietor Lorraine has considered all the things and has impeccable consideration to element, renovating and restoring 5 totally different mountain properties, that faucet into these, ‘cosy-by-the-fire-sunken-couch’ vibes. The property additionally has a washer (each walker’s dream!). spa tub and gardens enormous sufficient to host a Scout jamboree.
Oh sure, pricey pals… THIS is inn-to-inn strolling: sizzling bathe, scrumptious restaurant meal and loss of life by consolation – mountain guesthouse type.
Now, onto that meal… throughout the railway, 350 m away from Varenna is life-changing Korean BBQ restaurant, Jiggle. Korean born Jay and his Aussie spouse Hannah are enthusiastic about bringing conventional Korean flavours, via the recipes of his household and childhood, to the Blue Mountains. I learnt a lot by having Hannah cook dinner for us on the desk, most significantly, {that a} signal of a great meal and pleasure in Korea is a full desk. My sizzling suggestions are the wagyu, fried hen and taking their recommendation on the best way to construct the proper lettuce wrap. Oh and go straightforward on the soju… soju… so good.
Day 2 // Leura to Katoomba – 8km
Day 2 bursts into sunshine and the primary of two breakfasts—possibly I’m a Hobbit? That is shaping as much as be a significantly culinarily indulgent stroll.
Varenna gives a full breakfast on a visitor’s first night time, however our tummies and caffeine ranges had been calling us a block away at Sparrows Cafe, the place another person would cook dinner. A favorite with locals, Sparrows is the dream of former native maths instructor Josh and Jess. Recognized for his or her wonderful espresso (Little Marionette) and good meals, additionally they do an enormous vary of takeaway gadgets appropriate for a day’s hike. When you sit out the entrance, you’ll most likely end up chatting with a neighborhood and their canines.
Us hobbits had different plans for lunch although and had been among the first to style the GCTW packed lunch field providing from Blue Mountains restaurant stalwart, Bunker. Simply reverse Jiggle, we got instructions to come back across the again to the kitchen door to gather what turned out to be an enormous providing! This field may have fed us for a complete day. Nom, nom, nom. These treasure chests of tasty morsels have to be ordered upfront, however are good for a straightforward seize n’ go day 2.
Again via the leafy streets to Gordon Falls and the wealthy, moody moments of yesterday’s skies have disappeared just like the chocolate left on my pillow. Throwing again the cloudy curtains to disclose the unmistakable grandeur of the Jamison Valley it’s onerous to maintain our eyes on the observe, with Mount Solitary, Kings Tableland and Narrowneck wooing us on our left as we proceed to go west.
Tarpeian Rock (named after the 25m excessive rock in historic Rome the place essentially the most unsavoury of varieties had been flung to their deaths) is our first aspect journey for right now; its rippled rocks betray the traditional underwater story that continues to carve the sandstone of the Blue Mountains to at the present time. Dragging ourselves away, I enjoyment of sharing Bridal Veil View Lookout (to not be confused with Bridal Veil Lookout) with my buddy:
‘It kinda provides you a drone’s perspective of Bridal Veil Falls’.
Me attempting to explain the distinctive angle of Bridal Veil View Lookout
Powered by yesterday’s rain, the side is greater than definitely worth the quick steep metallic stairs and the 200m (one-way) offshoot. I’m certain our cockatoo buddy gained’t thoughts.
Graciously, the observe drew us onwards and alongside the well-known Leura Cascades, singing to us as we rounded the highest of the falls, and onto our tasty packed lunch within the gown circle at Bridal Veil Lookout.
It’s alongside the subsequent 5 km to the observe finish at Scenic World, that anybody conversant in the Prince Henry Cliff Stroll, will really feel proper at residence. Meandering out and in of spurs and gullies, but staying comfortably at across the identical elevation, the Grand Cliff Prime Stroll strikes alongside via areas in style with lyrebirds and bower birds. Late afternoons (or early mornings) are a deal with for the complete refrain as you duck out and in of myriad small lookouts and viewpoints.
Listen and don’t miss the grand dames of the Three Sisters by taking the sidetrack to the favored Woman Recreation Lookout, Honeymoon Bridge or the quieter (and my decide), Spooners Lookout.
We’re on the house stretch now, with round 2km to go (is it too early to toast ourselves at Bar NSW at The Lookout (the perfect bar view in Katoomba), however there’s nonetheless one key waterfall to soak up and it’s the most important of all of them: Katoomba Falls! Greatest seen from Katoomba Falls Lookout (100m aspect journey to Reids Plateau) and time to pause and replicate on the final two days and almost 20km of observe.
From right here, it’s a straightforward ramble into the Scenic World forecourt and bus cease the place when you arrive in time you’ll be able to hop on the 686 bus or for the complete vacationer expertise and fascinating commentary, hop on the purple Explorer bus.
Our planning fairy had different plans although and we discovered ourselves celebrating the tip of the stroll with but extra of the Blue Mountains nice hospitality.
Did somebody say, Gin?
Held inside the embrace of the lobby at Katoomba’s previous Savoy Theatre, pushing all of the swish and kitsch artwork deco buttons, is Katoomba Road’s Gin Parlour. A partnership between the Blue Mountains Gin Firm and the Avalon Restaurant upstairs, (the place you can refuel with classics like gradual roasted lamb, baked Atlantic salmon or confit duck), this whimsical venue gives prohibition period styling, stay music and a stable providing of gin (and different) cocktails. My suggestion: go for the gin flight: a tasting of 4 gins (my decide is the Black Label), matched with garnishes and educated commentary from 50’s glamour-girl, Helen. [I wish I could style like she can!].
Feeling oh-so-relaxed after that wind-down and in determined want of a bathe, it’s an excellent factor that my cosy mattress for the night time is all downhill from right here at my favorite price range keep within the Mountains—No. 14 Lovel Road—simply 550 m away.
Annette and Gavin have poured their coronary heart and soul into this circa 1913 charmer, simply an 8 minute stroll from Katoomba Station. Loaded with cosy nooks for quiet moments (there’s no TV), I headed upstairs to the lovable dormer windowed room, whereas Briar luxuriated in her ensuite room downstairs. That is the proper place for teams, households or bushwalking golf equipment and importantly, Annette provides pre-booked visitor transport & gear transfers for the Grand Cliff Prime Stroll. Giddyup I say! That is the impartial walkers’ dream: catch public transport and have somebody take your baggage, then decide you up/drop you off. Oh and when you wanted one more reason to remain right here, then you’ll be able to strive 10% off with low cost code: LOTSAFRESHAIR.
Day 3 // Katoomba to residence
Given the quantity of excellent meals and drinks we’ve imbibed over the past 2 days, one might be forgiven for pondering we don’t want breakfast. However when my favorite native brekky is on the way in which residence, how may I not cease by Tempus Up Early for my beloved hash brown. Now, I do know what you’re pondering:
Critically, Caro, I do know there’s no Maccas on this a part of the world, however hash brown?
~ Stated everybody who hasn’t tried these
I’m betraying myself (but once more), as I could or might not have been quoted in this text; however I’ll say it once more… I’m ruined for all times. That, and the immense heat hospitality proven by Louise (she’s a path runner, so hit her up for concepts) and her crew with their love of meals. She is a wizard on the machine, slinging Little Marionette brews that at all times hit the proper steadiness, served in earthy-feel crockery that’ll have you ever ordering one other.
Transport
Formally, the GCTW is related with public transport (Wentworth Falls Station to Katoomba Station by way of 19 km bushwalk and bus), however consideration must be paid to the #686 bus timetables that join the tip of the stroll at Scenic World to Katoomba Station. One more reason to consider staying someplace that may help with bag and physique transfers. Lookin’ at you No. 14 ;).
Taxi
Uber
Good luck. We don’t actually do Uber up right here. On a great day, you would possibly get one.
Caro’s different Blue Mountains meals suggestions
- KATOOMBA // The Bowery, Elysian, Cedar Kebabs, 8 Issues, Black Cockatoo, Cassiopeaia, Sushi & Co, Tempus, Station Bar, Basil Nut, Rustico, Sanwiye, Pho Moi, Mountain Tradition Brewery, Aunty Eds. (With so many choices, there’s actually no have to help the Yellow Deli).
- LEURA // Pink Door Cafe, Mr Collins, Lily’s Pad.
- WENTWORTH FALLS // Bahn Me, soups and Asian groceries @ The Laughing Elephant, Cassiopeia
