I hadn’t been to Good in years. In my younger years, I visited the French Riviera and Provence a number of instances, and it was at all times on a finances apart from one enterprise journey the place we had been wining and eating shoppers. Again within the day, crêpes and cappuccino made up my each day consumption and I may simply discover a respectable bottle of Bordeaux for round 5€. Though the whole lot is rather more costly than it was, there’s one factor you possibly can rely on in France – you’ll at all times have the ability to discover a affordable glass or bottle of wine: it’s an integral a part of the tradition.
Meals is such an essential a part of any journey to France, even if you happen to’re not a foodie. It’s not unusual to have a 2-3 hour lunch, typically longer if you happen to’re a part of a bunch. Markets proceed to thrive in Provence and alongside the Riviera, one other treasured a part of the tradition I’ve missed over time.
Good was our first cease after our Magdalene Pilgrimage ended. I’ve to confess, I used to be a bit nervous about revisiting a spot I as soon as cherished: Would commercialism have taken over? Would it not be overgrown with vacationers? Crowded? Costly? In truth, with solely two days, we didn’t have sufficient time to essentially discover town correctly, however due to the Villa St. Hubert Resort proprietor Sophie who knew the lay of the land so to talk, we had been on our method to discover inside twenty minutes of arriving and set off by foot.
Villa St. Hubert Resort, a central location, near the Borriglione on the Crimson Line in Good
Your Journey Information to Good
Do not forget that most of my European journey over time has been by practice, bus, small van or by foot, so having a automotive at our disposal was a little bit of a luxurious. That stated, it’s not at all times wanted and as many Europeans know, typically it simply will get in the best way once you take parking and site visitors into consideration. Sophie steered the tramway, which was wonderful recommendation.
Two issues to notice concerning the tramway — it’s simple to navigate however you’ll want to purchase a plastic card first earlier than you possibly can add cash to it, which will be difficult if you happen to don’t communicate French. After getting your card, nevertheless, touring is a chunk of cake since there are solely three strains. However first we walked and walked and walked — up, up, up hills, then stairs after which winding roads to a spot the place the views had been breathtaking.
Hills & Views of Good
By foot is difficult if you happen to’re not used to common train, however its oh so rewarding. Head to Fort Hill for panoramic views of town and the coast and Mont Boron for a extra greater vantage level over town the place you may also spot Villefranche-sur-Mer (take a look at the Belvédère de Villefranche-sur-Mer rooftop bar) or the Coastal Path). There are additionally spectacular views of town from SEEN Restaurant & Bar, which is a good spot for lunch or dinner (see our restaurant assessment of this fabulous gem)
Above and under, critiques from SEEN
Matisse & Chagall
Sadly we had to decide on between Chagall or Matisse (regardless that they’re shut to one another) as a result of we didn’t have sufficient time to do each and make our dinner reservation at Restaurant Lu Fran Calin for conventional Nissarde delicacies within the previous city — photos under.
The World of Matisse
The Matisse museum is housed in a totally renovated Genoese villa cushioned inside an olive grove within the Cimiez Gardens. The Matisse Museum follows the inventive growth of his time in Good from 1917 to his dying in 1954.
Above and under credit score: Matisse Museum
Credit score: Matisse Museum
Situated on 164, avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, the gathering, which is wealthy in almost 600 works, traces Matisse’s inventive analysis from the Nineties to the cut-out gouache papers of the top of his life. The museum additionally preserves the artist’s private objects as properly, which is at all times an fascinating method to get a glimpse into his concepts, persona and likes.
The World of Chagall
We opted to see Chagall at a museum devoted to him that has been open since 1973. It was a troublesome determination as a result of I like each painters; nevertheless, there’s one thing so mystical about Marc Chagall’s world that I wished to see a few of my favorites shut up. Situated on Av. Dr. Ménard within the Alpes-Maritimes, they’ve free days you possibly can go to the museum though the charges are affordable to attend (roughly $10 or so).
A lot of his work is impressed by the Abrahamic religions and he paints in daring, sturdy colours. He’s so inspiring that I took a whole lot of pictures – how may I not? Under, Abraham and the Three Angels is from 1960, displaying the second after they seem to Abraham, who welcomes and hosts them at his tent. If the story, you’ll recall that that is the pivotal second after they announce that Abraham’s aged spouse, Sarah, will conceive and provides start to a son.
One other portray with barely softer reds and pinks however right here, you continue to get the sense of a visitation of types, magic and thriller.
Under, this stained glass piece was highly effective with its vivid colours and nuances, a method that was so not like different work on show on the museum.
Under, Adam and Eve expelled from Paradise‘ was created in 1961 in Surrealism fashion.
Under, Adam and Eve. It’s outstanding to me how usually he was impressed by (and painted) Biblical icons, particularly from the Outdated Testomony, akin to Adam, Eve, Jacob, Noah and Moses.
The Chagall Museum in Good
The Chagall Museum in Good
Surrealism wasn’t one thing I naturally gravitated to in school once I first began finding out artwork, however his fashion is an exception. Jacob’s Dream (under) is an enigma for a lot of. Says Chagall, “I’ve been captivated by the Bible. It has at all times appeared to me and it nonetheless appears to me that it’s the best supply of poetry of all time. Since then I’ve sought this gleam in life and in artwork…”
Moses Receiving the Tablets of the Regulation (1960-1966) has a baroque fashion really feel to it. These tablets are held out to him by God popping out of the clouds. The mountain is seemingly representing the place Moses stood on and different Biblical characters are proven: Aaron the Excessive Priest, David and Jeremy and a bunch of fleeing Jews.
The Chagall Museum in Good
With Chagall, I may go on and on, however I extremely suggest you go to each museums once you’re in Good . . . crucial if you happen to’re an artwork lover or not. Their work will transfer you in methods you least anticipate.
Exploring by Tramway
Earlier than I transfer into a number of the websites and actions, let’s briefly discuss concerning the tramway. It’s simple to leap on and off, with out the trouble of parking, particularly helpful once you head to the promenade alongside the ocean and the previous city. We stayed near the Borriglione (Line 1: Crimson), making the previous city solely 5 stops away. It’s also doable to stroll it as properly (roughly a half an hour). We did each.
There are retailers and cafes alongside the best way in addition to fascinating structure. You’ll discover Saint Jean d’Angely (College), Saint Roch, Virgile Barel, SAint-Charles and Pont Michel on this line, the latter of which serves as a big transport interchange. Its strategic location makes it a handy level for vacationers aiming to discover the French Riviera and past. It’s the pink line the place you’ll discover the Outdated City (Opera – Vielle Ville).
There may be additionally a blue line (2) and inexperienced line (3), the latter of which is the place you’ll discover the airport terminal for individuals who want to come into town by practice from the airport. Different transportation choices embrace electrical scooter (YEGO has over 200 electrical scooters for rent in Good), by bike (LIME & PONY) which covers 12 municipalities, and by bus (ESPACE MOBILITES and AGENCE DE MOBILITE ZOU). Examine out this hyperlink for extra data on the right way to navigate your manner across the metropolis.
Eating & Cafes
There are such a lot of foodie gems in Good that it’s onerous to know the place to start. I couldn’t discover a crepe as simply as I may on my final go to, however then once more, I had spent a few weeks in Good throughout that keep, so I had my native haunts nailed down by day two. On this journey, we wished to discover extra flavors and in Good, it’s not onerous to do. Let’s begin with the rooftop expertise at SEEN, which had breathtaking views and contemporary sushi value writing dwelling about. (learn our standalone write-up) however the under photos will whet your urge for food.
SEEN Rooftop Restaurant in Good
Cocktails are additionally nice right here as is the wine choice. This spot isn’t your “go-to” for native genuine delicacies: it’s the selection for ambiance, nice sushi, contemporary fashionable dishes, a chic decor and spectacular views.
Cocktails on the SEEN Rooftop Restaurant in Good
Restaurant Lu Fran Calin
Outdated City has tons of nice choices for each fantastic and informal eating. We skilled Restaurant Lu Fran Calin for conventional Nissarde delicacies, a nook eatery surrounded by a small courtyard that has each inside and outdoors seating choices. Assume stews and duck dishes with a ton of taste. Anthony opted for the Beef Stew for his major course however was tempted by their home made Gnocchi, which they serve with buttons and ceps mushrooms, cream and Pistou.
Examples of appetizers embrace chilly lower platters (onion pie, stuffed veggies, with meat, chickpea fries, olive paste, polenta, pink peppers and mushrooms), marinated mushrooms with peppers, stuffed greens with rice or a blended scorching goat salad with fig jam and ham. There’s additionally the delicious artichoke stew full of Perugine sausage (under). Await it — it’s made with artichokes, pork stomach, garlic, onions, thyme, olive oil and white line. Delish, proper?
Above and under, Stuffed Artichoke and Beef Stew at Restaurant Lu Fran Calin
They provide varied Italian dishes as properly, akin to a Ravioli Ricotta in a Pugliese Sauce (Chard, Ricotta, Sage butter, Cherry Tomatoes and Parmesan), a Beef Ravioli in a Beef Stew Sauce and Penne Pasta with Burrata, Bacon, Olives and Tomato Sauce. Are you able to say sure please?
Need one thing extra conventional? Go for his or her Duck Breast with Honey and Inexperienced Lime Sauce or their Hen full of Cepes and Grain Mustard Sauce. May I add that espresso is an incredible method to finish any night in France. Situated at 5 rue Francis Gallo in Good, it’s a beautiful place to folks watch. The meals, ambiance and repair had been superior and we had been pleased with their wine decisions by the glass and by the bottle.
Close by are different genuine eating places for Nicoise and conventional fare, in addition to ethnic decisions as properly — Vietnamese, Italian, Burmese, Indian, Moroccan are prime examples. There are additionally loads of locations to get a restaurant and gelato will be discovered on almost each nook.
Gelato will be discovered all through Good
You will discover loads of spices, oils, fish, produce, cheese and different delicacies on the market. Additionally they have a wide array of artisan merchandise and one among our favourite reward choices in Provence: SOAP.
Lovely market choices in Good
Did I point out the breads, pastries and croissants? OMG – yum!
You may also discover macarons all through town, together with Outdated City. Angea on rue de la Poissonnerie and Macaron de Good on avenue Auber are each nice choices. There are such a lot of extra flavors to be present in France than anyplace you possibly can hope to purchase them within the states.
Historical past & Tradition
A lot of the historic monuments, cathedrals and buildings will be present in Outdated City, though there are exceptions. Value noting is the Baroque structure of L’Opera de Good, which is the work of architect Francois Aune. It apparently was an previous theater. The squares, cathedrals and monuments are spectacular even for the frequent European traveler.
Under, the unbelievable and majestic Notre-Dame of Good awaits your go to.
From antiquity to fashionable, you have got Notre-Dame not removed from a cubic glass construction that now homes a sports activities membership and spa. Wow, proper?
I completely liked the fountains in Promenade du Paillon, a lot so I didn’t wish to go away. I may have performed amongst them for hours. My colleagues had been desirous to get to the market and thereafter, Outdated City, however I may have stayed for longer.
What’s to not love?
There are different pure areas to take a seat, together with the Jardin Albert, a big space for strolling with a music kiosk and the Theatre de Verdure from the nineteenth century. There’s additionally La Colline du Château which is a botanical park and backyard with views of town, and boasts a synthetic waterfall. One other wonderment is Le Parc Forestier du Mont-Boron, which has 11 kilometers of trails within the coronary heart of 57 hectares. I want we had extra time to discover a few of these in depth. Le Parc Carol de Roumanie gives wood play buildings, a health path, and water recreation choices.
The Port is a good place to hold round (we purchased gelato right here). There isn’t a scarcity of squares with monuments, and statues from yesteryear.
Good boasts tons of museums, such because the Archeology Museum on Avenue des arenes de Cimiez and the Pre-Historical past Museum on Boulevard Carnot. Within the latter, you’ll discover an elephant-hunting camp relationship again 400,000 years, when the primary traces of fireside domestication on the planet was unearthed. Artwork lovers must also be aware the Museum of Wonderful Arts along with the Matisse and Chagall museums.
There’s the Nationwide Historical past Museum on Bis bd Risso (closed on Mondays) in addition to the Lascaris Palace (closed on Tuesdays), and the Massena Museum on Rue de France at 35 Promendade des Anglais. Massena is listed as a historic monument and right here, you’ll be taught concerning the historical past of Good from the nineteenth century. Catarina from the tourism board strongly urged us to soak up the Charles Negre Museum of Images however we ran out of time (I so so so wished to do that). It gives non permanent monographic exhibitions of the best names of images.
As you stroll from town middle, however earlier than you get to the official Outdated City, the market boasts artisans along with foodie choices. There are additionally these promoting attractive flower preparations.
Under, artisans promote their newest and best to vacationers and locals alike.
Alongside the best way, particularly as you undergo town middle, you’ll additionally discover extra conventional retailers for clothes, lotions, perfumes and quirky items with enjoyable colours and past.
Outdated City
Outdated City in most cities is a favourite place to go to for apparent causes. Outdated city areas are charming, the structure is wonderful and there are normally fantastic eating places and cafes. Good is not any exception to that rule of thumb. I couldn’t get sufficient of the winding alleys — on each flip, there was extra colour, extra smells, extra designs, extra surprises and extra visible sweet to behold.
There are numerous locations to hold your hat for a beer, glass of wine, champagne, espresso or a chunk.
If a Bohemian vibe is your jam, then there’s lots so that you can discover in Outdated City.
Need wine to go? You received’t be upset within the decisions. Seize a bottle of Medoc, Syrah or Bordeaux and head to the seashore.
There are some excellent cathedrals in Outdated City and on the sting of it as properly. Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur (Divo Jacobo) is a well-known Jesuit Baroque-style church, which is typically referred to by its Latin identify: Divo Jacobo Majori Apostolo. The church was constructed within the early seventeenth century and options ornate decorations, together with mosaics, stucco work, and statues.
Inside, there’s no scarcity of issues that can deliver awe into your consciousness.
We love cathedrals, church buildings and historic spiritual buildings, largely for the structure and stained glass, not for the Patriarch who constructed them. We didn’t get to see the Franciscan Museum Church and Monastery of Cimiez which gives an evocation of the lifetime of the Franciscans in Good from the thirteenth to the 18th century. The latter is a really fascinating cease for historical past lovers. Equally fascinating is the Grotte du Lazaret (closed on Mondays), alongside Bis bd Franck Pilatte. On the foot of Mont Baron, you’ll discover a cave that’s 35 meters lengthy and 4 to 14 meters large.
The Promenade in Outdated City
As you make your manner by the Outdated City, finally you get to the promenade alongside the ocean. Though I’m a few years older than my final go to and issues have certainly modified, I acknowledged it instantly. Reminiscences flooded my imaginative and prescient the second I stepped by the arches. Youth buzzing by on bikes, romantic {couples} hand-in-hand, folks consuming ice cream cones, and somebody studying a e-book (sure, she was actually off her telephone and studying one thing on paper). A handful had been really wading by the water.
You might have 15 non-public seashores and 20 public seashores to select from over seven kilometers. These serious about water sports activities and actions can take a look at La Base by Riviera Nautic Sport, Azur Kayak Mer, Le Poseidon Diving College and the Sea and Mountain Discovery Heart.
WATCH OUR SHORT NICE VIDEO HERE.
Little doubt, I’ve missed some issues, however we’ll be again with lots extra tales to share. Subsequent time, I’ll be sure you find time for the images museum, a swim within the ocean, a candy (and a savory crêpe) and Matisse.
Have you ever been to Good? What did you like probably the most and why?
You should definitely take a look at our France part for extra nice articles, hyperlinks and pictures.
Renee standing on the small patio at Villa St. Hubert Resort in Good
Renee Blodgett is the founding father of We Weblog the World. The positioning combines the magic of an internet tradition and journey journal with a world weblog community and has contributors from each continent on the planet. Having lived in 10 international locations and explored over 90, she is an avid traveler, and a lover, observer and participant in cultural range. She can be the founding father of the Magdalene Assortment, a jewellery line devoted to ladies’s unsung voices and tales, and the award-winning creator of the bestselling e-book Magdalene’s Journey
She is founding father of Blue Soul Media and co-founder of Blue Soul Earth in addition to the producer and host of the award-winning Blue Soul CHATS podcast, that bridges science, know-how and spirituality. Renee additionally based Magic Sauce Media, a brand new media providers consultancy centered on viral advertising and marketing, social media, branding, occasions and PR. For over 20 years, she has helped firms from 12 international locations get traction out there. Recognized for her world and natural strategy to product and company launches, Renee practices what she pitches and as an energetic person of social media, she helps shoppers navigate digital waters from world wide. Renee has been running a blog for over 16 years and recurrently writes on her private weblog Down the Avenue, Huffington Publish, BlogHer, We Weblog the World and different websites. She was ranked #12 Social Media Influencer by Forbes Journal and is listed as a brand new media influencer and recreation changer on varied websites and books on the brand new media revolution. In 2013, she was listed because the sixth most influential girl in social media by Forbes Journal on a High 20 Record.
Her ardour for artwork, storytelling and images led to the launch of Magic Sauce Images, which is a visible extension of her writing, the results of which has led to producing six picture books: Galapagos Islands, London, South Africa, Rome, Urbanization and Ecuador.
Renee can be the co-founder of Touring Geeks, an initiative that brings entrepreneurs, thought leaders, bloggers, creators, curators and influencers to different international locations to share and be taught from friends, governments, firms, and most of the people with a purpose to educate, share, consider, and promote progressive applied sciences.
