Sunday, March 15, 2026

This biking journey in Croatia confirmed me the enjoyment of letting go


Devin Cowens arrange Radical Journey Riders Atlanta to steer inclusive, two-wheeled journeys via her yard in Georgia. However a bunch journey in Croatia with Intrepid reminded her of the easy pleasure of pedalling in a pack.

‘I’ve been considering. Let’s go on a biking journey collectively,’ Lyn, my accomplice stated to me one wet Atlanta afternoon. ‘Nothing tremendous intense, although,’ she stated, with a glance that made it clear she wasn’t serious about becoming a member of my ordinary model of bikepacking journey.

I’ve been biking for over a decade. My brother constructed me my first single-speed bike in 2011, whereas I used to be dwelling in DC and wished to begin commuting by bike. At first, it was only a strategy to get round. However after a breakup in 2018, I doubled down on biking, looking for a way of group.

Devin Cowens cycling as part of Radical Adventure Riders Atlanta.
Devin Cowens pursued biking for a way of group

I moved to Atlanta in 2015, the place my first bikepacking journey – alongside the Silver Comet Path, simply exterior of the town – modified every little thing. I’d headed off with a few associates, utilizing borrowed gear and a $90 Craigslist bike. It was difficult, enjoyable, full of feelings – and the toughest factor I’d ever carried out bodily.

Biking gave me a way of freedom. The bodily act of pedalling to a spot that felt far, but was simply accessible by bike, felt limitless. I all of the sudden had this chance to see my metropolis and the encircling nature via a distinct lens. It supplied accessibility to the paths round me and showcased the sweetness in my yard; revealing nature as this stunning, therapeutic place in a manner I hadn’t beforehand skilled. I wished extra, however the price of a gravel bike and all of the related package was an enormous monetary barrier as a queer black lady and lifelong non-profit employee.

Breaking down boundaries to bikepacking

Again house, I googled ‘girls bikepacking’ and stumbled upon Radical Journey Riders, a motion dedicated to creating extra inclusive areas within the biking group. I signed up. Biking turned ‘my factor’ – and only a 12 months later, I based Radical Journey Riders ATL (RAR ATL) – the Atlanta arm of the organisation that had impressed me.

The remaining, they are saying, is historical past. We now host month-to-month rides, open workshops and bike-maintenance clinics, plus we’ve a gear library the place group members can hire gear to go on bikepacking journeys, freed from cost.

Nevertheless it wasn’t solely value boundaries I used to be eager to beat. In a world the place many queer and black individuals are beneath assault for merely current, I wished RAR to supply a welcoming, inclusive area that would supply important help and safety for anybody within the saddle.

I wished to create an setting that was freed from judgement, whereas additionally offering an area to be taught, mess up, attempt once more, and really feel supported alongside the best way.

In observe, I usually lead small teams on bikepacking journeys throughout Georgia that cowl 25 to 50 miles per day, via the state’s hilly terrain, educating folks tenting and outside abilities, equipping them to take their very own unbiased journeys.

So, sure – my love of biking could possibly be described as ‘intense’. However whereas I’m an ultra-cyclist, who trains and rides weekly, Lyn is a social bike owner who does an occasional group experience however largely enjoys driving for enjoyable. So we would have liked to discover a blissful medium. After some deliberation, we settled on the week-long Cycle Croatia journey with Intrepid, which felt like a good way to fulfill within the center.

We liked how the journey had biking as a part but in addition featured a strong quantity of downtime to discover, take within the views and refuel with scrumptious meals, whereas masking a number of floor on two wheels. However greater than that, it might be an important alternative for me to take off my chief helmet and easily benefit from the experience for some time.

Connecting with our group in Croatia

Generally travelling to new locations can really feel scary. There are simply so many unknowns. As a queer couple, we at all times do analysis on the queer friendliness of a spot we’re visiting upfront. I’m blissful to report that Croatia is a rustic with authorized protections for discrimination towards LGBTQIA+ folks. We had no points, from the seashores to the cities and in every single place in between. We have been affectionate in public, and felt secure round locals and vacationers alike.

Partly this got here from being made to really feel comfy inside our group of like-minded travellers. We have been a motley crew of eight, from everywhere in the US and Canada – together with a retired rural physician, an immigration lawyer, a advertising and marketing skilled and public-health mission supervisor.

We have been assured to see the vary of backgrounds and experiences represented in such a small group and felt comfy when connecting with our fellow travellers over shared meals and actions.

Not solely did the group fluctuate when it comes to background and industries, however we had a variety of biking experiences too. One particular person rode an e-bike, whereas one other was not used to climbing hills. Fortunately, the help and equipment van was at all times shut at hand, simply in case anybody wished to sit down one out.

The rider difficult herself on the coastal roads of Croatia

Tackling challenges head on

As one of many extra skilled riders, I relished the chance to be a little bit of a help system and cheerleader for a number of the less-seasoned cyclists. I attempted to remind them that they have been succesful and that the top of every experience would reward us with superb views and ample ice cream – which, invariably, it at all times did.

There have been some difficult however unbelievable climbs. Sooner or later, we rode up the center of Hvar, considered one of Croatia’s most-coveted summer time islands, on a 10-kilometre climb with 560 metres of elevation achieve – and I keep in mind Lyn mentioning how laborious it was.

Eager to maintain morale excessive, I stored repeating to her ‘you are able to do laborious issues’ and stayed along with her so she had help in the course of the climb. I additionally reminded her that we might take breaks.

Fortunately, we have been shortly rewarded for our efforts. As we got here round a hill that was blocked by mountains at first, the scene opened up out of nowhere to disclose a snapshot of the Starigrad Bay. I turned to Lyn and noticed her mouth drop as soon as she realised how excessive we have been. Her face stated all of it: ‘Did I simply climb that?’.

Safety within the saddle

However apart from at all times having to be on excessive alert for good views, we have been comforted by the truth that Intrepid dealt with the entire nitty-gritty logistics of the journey, which took the guess work out of planning and allowed us to calm down and never really feel exhausted on arrival on the finish of every day.

Having native guides proved invaluable to our expertise of Croatia. Our tour chief, Davor, taught us key Croatian phrases like ‘Pozdrav svima (greetings everybody)’ and ‘Laku noc (good night time)’, which helped us ingratiate ourselves with folks we met on the path.

He additionally beneficial glorious meals spots to take a look at throughout down time, together with a traditional Dalmatian restaurant hidden underground in a cave-like setting in Cut up, and went out of his strategy to give us the historical past of the areas we have been visiting.

Extra deeply, Davor actually appeared blissful that we have been there and genuinely serious about attending to know every of our tales. He was educated about not solely the bikes, however the areas we travelled via, as we moved from Dubrovnik to Cut up, ticking off three key islands in between.

Devin Cowens and her group of RAR ATL riders.Devin Cowens and her group of RAR ATL riders.
The author appreciates the worth of cruise management after Croatia

Studying to benefit from the downhill

As somebody who personally plans journeys on a regular basis, each for the RAR ATL, with associates and likewise for my accomplice and me, I didn’t realise the immense aid and pleasure I might really feel from not having to consider the logistics for as soon as.

This journey struck the proper stability for us: a mix of problem, journey and exploration, fused with relaxation. Too usually, my holidays will not be actually holidays: they’re simply time in a brand new place, packed stuffed with bodily exercise. In Croatia, I lastly discovered each: alternative for exertion, with loads of downtime to recharge.

It was a reminder of why I fell in love with travelling and biking within the first place with each offering a deeper connection to the land and my physique whereas grounding me in nature and the world round me.

The chance to expertise freedom within the saddle in a secure, welcoming, empowering manner, is one thing all of us deserve – particularly these current inside traditionally marginalised identities. It has empowered me to proceed to have these expansive adventures, one bike experience at a time.

Bikepacker Devin Cowens is the founding father of Radical Journey Riders Atlanta. She travelled with Intrepid on the seven-day Cycle Croatia journey.

Saddle up for an journey

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