Caledonian Springtime on the Lord of the Highlands, with Hebridean Island Cruises, is a novel cruise. It sails the excessive seas from Oban to the Hebridean islands of Mull and Iona earlier than heading inland via the Caledonian Canal to Inverness.
Darkish wooden, plush carpets and flashes of tartan give a rustic home really feel to the 19-cabin Lord of the Highlands. It’s a ship with royal associations too: Queen Elizabeth ll twice employed sister-ship Hebridean Princess to host her company.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks are all a part of the all-inclusive bundle which options quite a lot of 26 single-malt whiskies behind the bar. Stepping ashore, admissions to sights akin to Duart Citadel, Mull Cheese Farm, Glenfinnan Monument and the Culloden Customer Centre are coated, as are tea, espresso and desserts on the cafes.
Cruise lecturer, David Barnes, historian and creator, explains how the voyage progresses in chronological order. Starting with Columba bringing Christianity to Iona, via Bonnie Prince Charlie’s 1745 rising, on to the following Highlands Clearances and concluding with modern expressions of Scottish identification.
The arrival
Most company journey to Inverness for a coach journey, via the Nice Glen and alongside the shores of Loch Linnhe, to Oban the place the Lord of the Highlands awaits. Different company journey on to Oban.
Crew take baggage to our cabins – extra darkish wooden and polished nautical brass – the place a decanter of whisky sits.
Mull
Lower than an hour’s cruise, previous the granite obelisk celebrating Hutcheson’s nineteenth century improvement of island steamship routes, takes us to Craignure harbour on Mull.
“There is no such thing as a crime on Mull, no have to lock your doorways,” coach driver Andy informs us as he seems out for swooping white-tailed eagles on the drives us in direction of Tobermory. Information Colin retains an eye fixed on the Mull Sound for dolphins and whales.
Deer simply outnumber the three,000 people who stay on this small island of craggy rock, windswept bushes and glowing rivulets. Vibrant store facades, as soon as supposed as fishermen’s houses, beautify Tobermory’s horseshoe harbour.
On Europe’s edge, with climate as dramatic because the panorama, the Hebrides encourage artists and crafters who show their work in Tobemory’s outlets and galleries.
Our tour to centuries outdated Duart Citadel, strategically positioned to survey ships on the sound however uncovered to sheets of rain and icy gale-force, exemplifies Mull’s remoteness. Spanish officers, taken from an 1588 Armada ship on the lengthy route residence, will need to have felt that they had been imprisoned on the planet’s bleakest and coldest dungeon.
Life on Mull is hard. When the Reades a Somerset dairy farming household visited in 1978, they determined to maneuver. Bringing 5 cows to share their lounge in harsh winters.
Practically 5 a long time and lots of challenges on, the Mull Island Cheese Farm produces award profitable cheddar and has a tasting tour that additionally contains the spirits – for instance Whey Sky – that they distil from the cheese’s waste merchandise.
Iona
Excessive winds stop the Mull ferry crusing to Iona and experiencing a uniquely religious vacation spot the place allegedly you may nearly hear the echo of monk’s hymnal chants and quills scratching ecclesiastical historical past.
As an alternative, David Barnes explains how Columba introduced Christianity from Eire, a glimmer of sunshine within the Darkish Ages, referencing the “How Eire saved civilisation” guide.
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Crusing to the mainland
Captain Jim cruises slowly via the Linnhe sea-loch giving us spectacular views of Glen Coe and a closely snow-capped Ben Nevis as we head in direction of the Caledonian Canal.
A drive alongside the route of the steam-powered Jacobite Categorical, nearly as spectacular because the morning’s cruise, takes us to the monument commemorating Bonnie Prince Charlie’s arrival, previous to the 1745 Rising. A brief climb offers views over the Glenfinnan viaduct, famend for its function within the Harry Potter movies.
Over early night cocktails, the captain’s presentation introduces us to the Caledonian Canal. Regardless of the navy’s pressing requires a short-cut between east and west coast, it was three a long time earlier than parliament permitted a scheme that was ultimately 12 years late and almost 300% over funds.
The Caledonian Canal
The Lord of the Highlands is raised 1 / 4 of a mile by the eight locks that make up Telford’s nineteenth century engineering miracle of Neptune’s Staircase at Fort William.
Snow-covered hills body first Loch Lochy after which onto the canal that hyperlinks to Loch Oich. The canal was partly a social challenge to supply labour for males cleared from the Highlands – paid with beer, cash and whisky – supplied they provided their very own spade.
Cruising via the scenic however slim Laggan Avenue, following a playful otter, it’s obvious why the canal was out of date earlier than it was accomplished in 1822. New steamships had been broader and deeper, moreover, with the Napoleonic Wars over, the seas had been safer. At Kytra lock, most passengers disembark, to both cycle or stroll the footpath for a few miles into Fort Augustus.
Early night, David places the Jacobite Rising of 1745 and the following defeat at Culloden into context. He argues that English retribution – no bagpipes, no Gaelic, no kilts – and brutal clearance of the Highlands inhabitants quietened Scottish identification for 2 centuries. Significantly as 1000’s emigrated to Australia and Canada.
Loch Ness
Sightings of Nessie are unconvincing. The monster is first talked about in an account of Columba’s travels; written a century later. Not probably the most dependable historic supply. However on darkish and driech days, over-active imaginations are comprehensible when confronted by a foreboding inland sea greater than 22-miles lengthy.
Current sightings, David tells us as we go Urquhart Citadel, coincidentally originated from a Thirties couple working a B & B. While a Nineties spot got here after a prolonged (liquid?) lunch. Even on our bridge visits, we fail to see Nessie.
Culloden Battlefield and Customer Centre
Even-handed, the centre presents the lead-in to the 1746 Battle of Culloden with in-depth element. A terrifying movie proven on 4 sides of standing viewers, presents the bloody, deafening and brutal actuality of struggle. Of 1,500 deaths, 1,400 had been from the drained and poorly outfitted Jacobites.
It was extra of a bloodbath, lasting a mere hour, than a battle. Bonnie Prince Charlie fled to the islands. Someway making a story of romantic failure, regardless that within the lead-up to the battle he had rejected a lot sound recommendation.
The gala dinner
Bagpipes welcome the haggis and a wonderfully kilted seaman reads Rabbie Burns’ deal with to the haggis. The waitresses serve whisky with the haggis.
This was extra proof for David’s assertion that Scotland had recreated its identification, Gaelic is rising within the colleges and the humanities. On Mull we had been entertained by a Gaelic Music duo who tour the world, while moored on the Corpach basin we watched a Gaelic dancing efficiency.
The fee
2026 costs for Lord of the Highlands begin from £3,281 per particular person for a six-night Autumn in Caledonia cruise from Oban to Inverness departing 17th October. Worth contains all meals and drinks, excursions, port taxes and transfers between Oban and Inverness. To guide, name Hebridean Island Cruises on 01756 634933. For additional data go to Hebridean Island Cruises.
The ultimate verdict
The Lord of the Highlands affords voyages for the curious and considerate: for travellers who benefit from the luxuries of connoisseur meals, supplied with quite a lot of wines, dessert wines and ports.
Via into the summer season and autumn of 2026, the Lord of the Highlands and her sister ship the Hebridean Princess have cruises scheduled with themes of biking, flavours of the Hebrides, golf, gardens and the pure world. Different itineraries embrace The Mysteries of St Kilda and the Outer Islands plus an Orcadian Journey.
Disclosure: Our keep was sponsored by Hebridean Island Cruises.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a journey author from Oxfordshire, UK. Though Michael had his first journey items revealed almost 4 a long time in the past, he’s nonetheless discovering new luxurious locations to go to and write on.
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